
Qass 
Book 



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THE VINE: 



ITS CULTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 



WINE MAKING 



FRO)I GRAPES AND OTHER FRUIT; USEFUL RECIPES, &C. 




By R. H. PHELPS 



JUp^ 



HARTFORD: 



PRESS OF CASE, TIFFANY AND COMPANY 



THE VINE 



ITS CULTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 



WINE MAKING 



FROM GRAPES AND OTHER FRUIT; USEFUL RECIPES, &C. 




1^' 



By R. H.PHELPS 







\[-^ U.S.A. 



V? HARTFORD t'^^^^^^/ASHi^^^^ 
PRESS OF CASE, TIFFANY AND COMPANY. 



^^v 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1S55, by 

R. H. PHELPS, 
in the Clerk's office of the District Court of Connecticut. 






INDEX. 

PAGE. 

Introduction, .' 5 

Soil and location for the vine, 7 

Propagating, and planting, 9 

'* by layers, 10 

* ' from the root, 10 

" by cuttings, ; 12 

Grafting the vine, 14 

Manuring and culture, 17 

Pruning the vine, 19 

Disease, insects, &c. , 26 

Wine making, 27 

Wine from the grape, 28 

Fermentation of wine, 32 

Wine from grape leaves, 36 

Fining of wine, 37 

Profits of the vineyard, 39 

Temperance — Healthfulness of the grape, 45 

Varieties for the north, 55 

Vineyards in the United States, 59 

Foreign vineyards, 66 

Durability and fruitfulness of the vine, 70 

Blackberry wine, 74 

Blackberry syrup, 75 

English cherry wine, 76 

Currant wine 76 

Elderberry wine, 77 

Whortleberry wine, ". 78 

Strawberry wine, 79 

Tomato wine, 79 

To improve poor wine, 80 

Elderberry syrup, SO 

Strawberry, grape and currant jelly, .81 

To make raisins, 82 

To keep grapes fresh in winter, 83 



INTRODUCTION. 



To encourage and aid the many who are com- 
mencing the cultivation of the vine, and the making 
of pure wine from grapes and other kinds of fruit, 
is the chief motive in publishing these pages. The 
writings of many who have contributed essentially 
to advance this useful branch of horticulture, have 
been freely consulted and compiled, and it is 
believed that judicious selections from practical 
writers and successful cultivators, will be more 
acceptable, than a lengthy detail of abstract opin- 
ions alone. From my! own experience in grape 
culture and wine-making, though limited, and from 
the decided opinions of those well informed, it is 
evident that our nation need never import another 
gallon of foreign wine, or any kind of spirituous 
liquors — that the vine is a native of our own soil 
and climate, (which can not be said of it in Europe,) 
and that wine has within a few years been made 
here, which has of the same age, excelled some of 
the best wines of the old world. In truth an article 
far better and more medicinal for people of our 
climate, can be made from our native Blackberry^ 
than most which is imported at high cost; and 
could our native wines supersede those now mostly 
2 



6 



INTRODUCTION. 



used, those vile compounds called pure Port, 
Malaga, Champagne, &c., and chiefly compounded 
of whiskey, cider, sugar of lead, logwood, green 
corm, etc., would take their final exit from our land, 
and also would take away in their flight their usual 
concomitants, impaired health, and vitiated appetite 
for spirituous liquors. It is not supposed that the 
great leading interest in this latitude in America, 
will be the cultivation of vast vineyards for wine, yet 
every person who owns a house and six feet in width 
around it, can in a very few years with trifling 
labor and expense, raise grapes sufficient to supply 
abundantly an ordinary family with fruit, from 
September until February, or March, besides wine 
for medicinal uses. Those who prefer not to 
extract the wine, can readily dispose of all their 
surplus grapes, if of good variety, in our markets at 
a fair profit. 

So little foreign wine is sold in our country in its 
pure state, that a friend of the author, the late 
Judge Woodruff, who visited the wine countries of 
the east, remarked, that the only certain way to 
obtain it unadulterated, was to press out the juice 
and make the wine yourself, bung it tight, and then 
get astride the cask and ride it all the way home. 
It is stated that more wine is annually sold in New 
York for the pure article, than passes through the 
custom-house in ten years, although we import six 
or seven million gallons yearly, and at a cost to the 
consumer, probably of eight or ten million dollars. 



CULTIVATION OF THE VINE. 



SOIL AND LOCATION. 

The soil best adapted to the vine in this latitude, 
is a dry warm loam which can be readily pulverized, 
and not liable to bake, or become compact under 
the influence of rain and sun, with subsoil of a 
porous, gravelly or stony texture, that the roots 
may easily penetrate to a good distance. A sandy 
soil with rocks or gravel beneath, is preferred by 
many, but where the subsoil is clayey and too 
retentive of water, it should be taken out some feet 
in depth, and replaced with surface mould, stones, 
old lime, sand and the like. A sandy soil is said 
by Mozier in his memoir on the vine, "to produce a 
fine pure wine ; the gravelly and stony, a delicate 
wine; rotten and broken rocks, a fumy and gener- 
ous wine of superior quality." 

Where clay predominates, a plentiful admix- 
ture of sand a little elevated, makes a good soil. 
Old land is considered by vinegrowers preferable to 
new land. A hilly or rolling surface is generally 
better than a level, and elevated ground better than 
the low. 

Arthur Young, the celebrated agricultural traveler, 
says, "in France, immense tracts of land may 



8 



CULTIVATION 



be ranked among the most valuable, which in 
Britain would be absolute waste; in Pellecoy 
I passed vineyards so steep, that it is strange how 
men can stand at their work — one-third of the 
country under vines planted on absolute rocks, but 
calcareous (limy.) In Cohors, nineteen-twentieths 
under vines, many of them more than two hundred 
years old." Hills in the neighborhood of ponds,^ 
rivers, or the ocean, where the leaves can readily 
imbibe moisture, are friendly to the vine. If the 
soil is humid, cold or clayey, thorough underdrain- 
ing must be accomplished, before the vine can 
flourish. Wild vines growing in wet alluvial 
positions, when transplanted and cultivated in dry 
soil, are sensibly improved; the grapes become 
thinner skinned, the seeds less and the pulp softer 
and sweeter. It is ascertained that on the summit 
of hills or elevated ground, the temperature is more 
mild and uniform than in the valleys beneath; 
consequently such locations are better adapted to 
the grape, as well as to the apple, peach and other 
fruit. Dr. Kirtland of Ohio, has applied the test 
of science to this subject. He stationed himself 
on a hill with a thermometer, lantern and watch, 
on a night when a severe frost was expected; while 
his brother stood with a thermometer, lantern and 
watch in the valley below. -Each made and 
recorded observations, every half-hour during the 
night, and the result was as follows. From sun- 
down until nine o'clock, both thermometers indica- 
ted the same degree of temperature. At nine 



OF THE VINE. 



o'clock, the mercury in the valley thermometer, 
commenced sinking, while that on the hill, at the 
same time, began to rise; and the doctor observed 
a perceptible current of warm air, flowing up from 
the valley. At twelve o'clock, the thermometer in 
the valley indicated twelve degrees lower tempera- 
ture than that on the hill, and about the same 
difference was observed until daylight in the morn- 
ing. The rays of the sun also concentrate in a 
valley, causing extreme heat, while on elevated 
ground they are more diffused, and the heat less 
intense, and more uniform. 



PROPAGATING AND PLANTING. 

Grapes may be propagated by the seeds, by 
layers, by cuttings or by grafting. If it is desired 
to produce from the seeds^ they should be taken 
from those clusters which are the earliest, largest, 
and best ripened, and from those berries having 
the least number of seeds. Like tends to produce 
like, and by careful selection of the seed, all vegeta- 
bles can be improved. There is however in the 
vine, some uncertainty in its fruiting when raised 
from the seed, owing to the fact, that in some cases 
the vine is deficient either in stamens or pistils. 
Many vines growing wild in the woods are barren 
or male, which by engrafting, can be made product- 
ive. The quickest way of raising grapes is from 
layers, or from the root. 
9.* 



10 CULTIVATION 

PROPAGATING BY LAYERS. 

Bend down a shoot from the vine, and cover it 
with two or three inches of earth or inverted turf, 
and pin it to its place by sticks put across it into 
the ground, or lay a stone upon it, leaving two or 
three buds on the end above the ground. .It will 
readily take root if not too dry, and can be cut 
from the parent vine very early in the spring, or in 
the fall, and will sometimes bear fruit the next 
summer. 



PROPAGATING FROM THE ROOT. 

A healthy root will often produce grapes the first 
season it is planted, if done with care ; but more 
generally the second season. It should never be 
permitted to ripen but few at first, as it would 
injure its future productiveness and vigor. Some 
are in favor of setting out their vines in the fall, 
but my own experience indicates spring as the 
better time. The hole to receive the roots should 
be made broad and deep, that they may have room 
to ramble to a distance, as they will do, if the earth 
is made mellow and mixed with proper ingredients. 
Bones, old leather, street scrapings, old plaster and 
bricks, turf compost, soap-suds, &c., constitute the 
best manure for vines. Fresh stable manure should 
never be placed in contact with the roots, nor any 
substance tending to ferment, or form an acid or 
salt of a highly stimulating nature. 

Bones^ are perhaps the best of all substances to 



OF THE VINE. 11 

promote the vigor of the vine. In digging up a 
grape root two years since which had been planted 
near a few bones, I was surprised to see the avidity 
with which the roots sought after them. Every 
bone was literally covered with a network of fibrous 
roots; the cavity of each was filled with them, 
so that it was impossible to remove them, with- 
out tearing the roots in pieces. This vine had been 
remarkable for its rapid growth, and dark foliage. 

In April, 1854, 1 planted on my place in Windsor 
about fifty grape roots, mostly Isabella, with a few 
Catawbas and others, as follows: I had the ground 
trenched on which the rows were set, to the depth 
of two feet, and in the bottom placed stones and 
brush, then filled in with loam, sand, oyster shells, 
blacksmith's cinders, bones, ashes, and some well 
rotted manure. On this bed I planted the roots 
which were two years from the cuttings. The rows 
were four and a half feet apart, and the vines nine 
feet distant from each other in the row. The next 
day, snow fell four or five inches deep, with a 
freezing north wind for several days following. 
The ensuing weeks were remarkable as a time of 
general deluge in this part of the country, and as 
luck would have it, this extreme was followed in 
August, by an extreme the opposite way; for a 
drought occurred, more severe it is said, than for 
thirty years previously. But notwithstanding the 
un propitious season, every vine but one survived, 
and some of them grew to the length of six or 
seven feet during the summer. Some Isabella 



12 CULTIVATION 

vines which I planted six years since, are now five 
inches in circumference, and have borne abundantly 
for three years past. I have made wine from them 
of superior quality, and have kept some of the fruit 
until April. 

In March 25th, 1853, I planted in the District of 
Columbia, on land which I purchased, about two 
hundred Isabella and Catawba vines which I 
carried from Connecticut, in a similar manner to 
the foregoing, and in a few weeks many of them 
had set for fruit. An enterprising gentleman from 
New York purchased a lot adjoining, and planted 
about eleven hundred grape roots, principally of 
the Catawba, with the intention of raising grapes 
for the northern markets. My small thrifty vine- 
yard soon brought me a purchaser for the place, at 
a pretty fair advance. 



BY CUTTINGS. 

The following is copied from an excellent work 
on the grape, written a few years since by Mr. A. 
Spooner of Long Island, and contains plain and 
sensible directions which can be safely followed. 

" Any well ripened wood* of the last year's growth 
is good for a cutting, but the nearer it is to the old 
wood, the more likely it will be to succeed, and 
even if a small piece of the old wood remains, it 
will be all the better. A cutting should embrace 
three or more buds, and should be taken from the 
plant before the circulation of the sap commences, 



OF THE VINE. 



13 



and be from six to twelve inches in length. They 
are taken from the vines at the pruning in March, 
or may be taken at any time between the first of 
November, and first of April. About an inch of 
wood is left above the upper bud, and should be cut 
sloping at the back side from the bud, in order that 
it may be protected. They are then buried in the 
earth, or kept in the cellar until wanted for setting 
out. They are; first set in a garden or well pro- 
tected ground, and at a distance of six to twelve 
inches apart, in rows which may be a foot or more 
apart. At the lower end which goes into the 
ground, the wood is cut as near the bud as it can 
be, without injury. They are set in the ground so 
deep, that the topmost bud shall just come to the 
top of the ground, so as to receive the benefit of 
earth and air, as this is the only bud which shoots 
above the ground, the others going to the formation 
of roots. If the season should be dry, they will 
require watering several times. I consider a shady 
spot but little exposed to the sun, as being prefera- 
ble for cuttings. Sometimes they are put endwise 
in a pot or box, and filled in with earth and watered. 
In this manner, a great number may be put in a 
small space for transportation. I once successfully 
sent cuttings from New York, to Little Rock in 
Arkansas by way of New Orleans. These were 
placed in grassy sods of earth a little moistened." 
" The cuttings will in the first year throw up a 
shoot from the top bud ; if two should come forth, 
the weakest must be taken away, and if none 



14 



CULTIVATION 



should come, it is not certain that the cutting is 
dead, as it will sometimes throw out a shoot under- 
ground, and push its way to the surface in the next 
season. If the cutting throws out a strong shoot 
the first season, you may, at the next March prun- 
ing, cut it down to two buds from the main stalk, 
or if a weak shoot, cut it to one bud. The young 
vine is sometimes transplanted to its permanent 
place about this time." • 

The writer of this has received cuttings by mail 
sent from Detroit, Michigan, to Windsor, Conn., 
and most of them proved to be in growing order. 
There were two buds only on each, and were waxed 
on both ends and inclosed in a little moss, and 
enveloped in paper similar to a public document, 
and the postage prepaid by weight. 

GRAFTING THE VINE. 

A vine wild and w^orthless, can by a few moments' 
labor in grafting, be made to bear plentifully of 
any desirable sort of grapes. A writer, Mr. Herbe- 
mont, says : " The mode which I practice usually, 
and which is attended with no difficulty and very 
seldom fails, is as follows : If the vine I wish to 
graft is in the place I desire to have it, all I do is to 
take away the earth around it to the depth of four 
or five inches, saw it off, or cut it off with a sharp 
knife about two or three inches below the surface 
of the ground. (The depth may be regulated by 
the length of the scion used.) Split it with a knife 



OF THE VINE. 15 

or chisel; and having tapered the lower end of the 
scion in the shape of a wedge, insert it in the cleft 
stock so as to make the bark of both coincide 
(which is perhaps not necessary with the vine) — 
tie it with any kind of string merely to keep the 
scion in its place ; return the earth to its place, so 
as to leave only one bud of the graft above the 
ground, and the other just below the surface, and it 
is done. If I have no vine where I wish to have 
one, I dig it out of the woods, cut it off as before 
described — insert the scion — tie it, and plant it 
where wanted, leaving as in the other case only 
one bud or two at most, above the ground. All 
the care now required, is to surround it with sticks 
to prevent its being trampled on or otherwise in- 
jured, and to notice the shoots that may grow 
below the scion, that they may be immediately 
taken oft" close to the stock, taking care not to 
move the scion or graft, which might prevent its 
taking. Such grafts usually grow as soon as other 
buds of the vine in the neighborhood, but it some- 
times happens that they start later. 

" When the stock or the vine into which you wish 
to insert a graft is too large to be conveniently split, 
or is several inches in diameter, after having sawed 
it two or three inches below the surface nearly 
horizontally, I take a gimlet, or carpenters' stock 
and taper bit, and bore one or more holes according 
to the size of the stock, about an inch and a quarter 
deep. I then prepare the scion, which in this case 
ought to be selected pretty large, and by cutting 



16 CULTIVATION 

the bark of it, and a little of the wood all round 
within an inch and a quarter of the lower end, fit 
it to the hole, and push it in till the shoulder of the 
bark made by the cutting, comes down to the 
sawed surface of the stock, and if the stock is 
large enough to require two or three grafts, after 
having fitted them all in, I return the earth, leaving 
only one or two buds above the ground as above, 
and the work is done. As this last method of 
grafting usually succeeds as well as the first, it 
would seem to indicate that it is unnecessary in 
grafting the vine, that the bark of the stock and 
that of the scion, should coincide exactly, as it 
must in all other kinds of fruit. 

" I have generally succeeded best when I have 
grafted late in the spring, and just before the buds 
of the vine burst into leaves; that is, when the sap 
is flowing pretty freely. It is, however, a matter of 
some importance, that the scions should have been 
kept back if possible, so that their buds are only 
beginning to swell, and this must regulate the time 
of grafting. They may be kept back by burying 
them in as cold a place as possible, as the north 
side of a house, or in a box of sand placed in an 
ice-house. The scion thus kept back may be used 
with complete success, so late as when the vine for 
the stock is in full leaves." 

One writer recommends grafting the vine about 
the 25th of June, when the foliage is fully expanded, 
if the scions can be kept back; and others prefer to 
have it done as soon as the frost leaves the ground. 



OF THE VINE. 17 

The scions can be kept well, in clean damp sand, 
or in moss a little damp, or the end stuck in a 
potato. 

MANURING AND CULTURE. 

When the young vineyard is planted, some other 
crop, if not too exhausting, can, during the first year, 
be raised between the vines, without material injury 
to them, and some continue the practice 'feven 
longer; but when the vines commence bearing, no 
other crop should be taken from the land, as less 
would be gained than lost, in their future growth. 
Grass and weeds should be exterminated, and 
mulching, or covering the ground with leaves or 
other litter, especially during the hot months, has 
an excellent effect in preserving an equal degree of 
moisture and heat, and in keeping down weeds or 
grass. Some manure their vines every third year, 
by trenching to the depth and width of a spade, 
and throwing in two or three inches of well rotted 
manure. Others spread the manure on the surface 
and plow it under, while others scatter it on the 
surface and dig it under with the hoe. 

Mr. Corneau, a successful cultivator, says, that 
high manuring accelerates a larger growth of wood, 
and a more attractive looking fruit, while the more 
essential qualities of the grape for wine^ are very 
much deteriorated. Mr. Spooner remarks, that 
"although the vine will flourish on poor dry and 
sandy soils, yet after a few years it exhausts the 
3 



18 CULTIVATION 

soil around it, and requires manure. But it must 
be given with much prudence and not in excess. 
Liquid manures are to be prefered, and stable 
manure mostly avoided. Leaves of all sorts, (its 
own leaves the best,) and peat, or swamp earth, are 
desirable. Bones and animal manure from slaughter 
houses are much used, as also lime and gypsum. 
Soap-suds^ soot, poudrette, guano, ashes of all kinds, 
street and road manure, all are good for the grape, 
and every family makes enough for several vines. 
Fish and sea-weed are much used in France, but 
the latter is said to give a peculiar taste to the 
wine. New earth must be applied where the vines 
are on a side hill, to replace that which washes 
away. If the vines become yellow, it is an indica- 
tion of weakness in the root, and that manure is 
required. It is best applied in the /a//, or early in 
spring." 

Respecting the distance at which vines should be 
planted, cultivators differ in opinions and practice. 
Mr. Buchanan, an intelligent and extensive vine- 
grower in Ohio, remarks that, " our native varieties 
with their long joints, large foliage, and luxuriant 
growth, require more room to grow than the short- 
jointed vines of the Rhine. Hence, our German vine- 
dressers have sometimes erred in planting too close 
in this country, as three and a half feet by four, 
four by four, &c. For steep hill sides, three feet by 
five may answer, but for level land, four by seven 
is better; this will admit the sun and air to mature 
the fruit, and leave a liberal space for the roots to 



OF THE VINE. 19 

grow." Dr. Underbill, of New York, a very suc- 
cessful vine-grower, has' a vineyard of between 
twenty and thirty acres, from which he raises 
immense quantities of grapes for New York market, 
which bring from ten to fourteen cents per pound. 
They are chiefly of the Isabellas, and the vines 
stand about six feet apart in the rows, and the rows 
six to eight feet distant from each other, with an 
occasional wider space for a cart-path. The vines 
are supported by posts ten or twelve feet apart in 
the rows, and are about six feet above the ground. 
Three trellises of wire are stretched upon the posts, 
and wound around nails driven into each post. 
The lower wire is about one foot from the ground, 
and each wire and post receives a coating of coal 
tar^ which serves an excellent purpose of preserving 
the iron and wood from rust or decay. A gentle- 
man at Germantown, Pa., has adopted a similar 
plan with his vineyard of several thousand vines. 
His rows stand seven feet apart, and the vines five 
feet in the rows. He uses wire number eleven 
annealed. He never allows his vines to reach a 
hight of over four feet when fresh pruned, and at 
five years of age, fifty clusters to each vine are 
suffered to ripen. One acre if set three feet by six, 
would contain 2,420 vines ; if set four feet by eight, 
it would contain about 1,360. 



PRUNING. 

The following concise directions for pruning the 



20 CULTIVATION 

vine, are given by Mr. Buchanan in his able work 
on grape culture. " When a vineyard is planted in 
the spring with cuttings, the next spring cut the 
young vine down to a single eye or bud, and drive 
a stake six or seven feet long, firmly to each plant. 
Locust or cedar is preferred, but oak or black walnut 
charred on the end or coated with coal tar, will last 
nearly as long. Keep the young vine tied neatly 
to the stake with straw — pick off all suckers, and 
let but one stalk grow. The second spring cut 
down to two or three eyes or joints, and the third 
spring, to four or five. The third year the vines 
will produce a few grapes. Train two canes to the 
stalk, this year, take off laterals and keep well hoed. 
Pruning can be done during any time from the fall- 
ing of the leaves until March, or until the sap 
begins to flow." Although Mr. Buchanan and some 
others practice spring pruning, I have generally 
pruned my own vines in the fall after the leaves 
have dropped, or in the early part of winter, and 
have succeeded well in every instance. I see no 
reason why the root should be required to support 
life in all the branches through the winter, and then 
be summarily shorn of them in the spring. 

Mr. B. says, " The fourth year, pruning requires 
good judgment, as the standard stem or stock has 
to be established. Select the best shoot of last 
year, and cut it down to six or eight joints, and 
fasten it to the adjoining stake in a horizontal 
position, or bend it over in the form of a bow, and 
tie it down to its own stake. This is the bearing 



OF THE VINE. 21 

wood. The ties should be of willow. Cut the 
other cane down to a spur of two or three eyes, to 
make bearing wood for the next season. Various 
modes of training are adopted ; some tie the shoot 
up to the stake perpendicularly, with two or three 
ties. The greatest part of the German vine-dressers, 
make circular bows with three ties ; and another 
mode is to make half-circle bows, as follows. Give 
the shoot the first tie to the stake, nine inches from 
the ground, and the second nine inches above it ; 
then bow it over to the neighboring stake in a hori- 
zontal position, and give it the third tie to that 
stake at the top of the vine. In the succeeding and 
all subsequent years, cut away the old bearing wood, 
and form the new bow or arch from the best branch 
of the new wood last year, leaving a spur as before, 
to produce bearing wood for the coming year ; thus 
keeping the old stalk down to eighteen or twenty- 
four inches from the ground. The vine is then 
always within reach and control. The best time 
for tying the vines to the stake is in the spring, 
when the sap begins to swell the buds and make 
them look white ; then in damp weather the bow 
can be formed by a slight twist of the branch, and 
fastened to the stake without breaking ; this requires 
to be done carefully. Should a vine be lost after 
the vineyard is in bearing, it can be replaced by a 
layer from the adjoining vine, which is a better 
mode than planting a young vine. The layers may 
be put down late in autumn, but spring is preferred. 
In summer pinch off the ends of the bearing 
3* 



22 CULTIVATION 

branches, two, three, or four joints beyond the up- 
per bunch of grapes, according to the number it 
bears. Take off all laterals from the wood intended 
for bearing next year, and not break off the ends of 
these branches at all as is sometimes done ; the 
leaves are the lungs of the plant, and while it is 
necessary to remove suckers and laterals, in order 
to throw strength into the fruit and hearing' 
branches for next year^ a liberal quantity of leaves 
should be left for the supply of both." 

The above directions, it is to be observed, are de- 
signed for vineyards in the field, but as most people 
at the north have only a few vines, and those 
generally around the house or in the garden, upon 
arbors, &c., other methods of training and pruning 
can readily be adopted, and a little practice will 
soon enable any one to do their own pruning, with- 
out calling to their aid a professor. Mr. Spooner 
observes, that the " Isabella vines are so extremely 
exuberant in their growth and foliage, that it is not 
easy to prescribe rules for pruning and training, 
which will suit all cases. After your vine is trans- 
planted to the spot where it is to remain, you are 
to train it according to the space you wish it to 
cover. I would advise, if the arbor, trellis, fence, 
or house will allow it, that it be trained about a 
foot from the ground, in two branches forking each 
way. It is thus within reach for a time, but you 
will soon require ladders to trim the vine and gather 
the fruit. Let it be particularly observed, that the 
fruit always grows on the shoots of the present 



OF THE VINE. 



23 



season^ which spring from wood of last season. 
This is very important to be critically observed by 
every person who attempts to prune a vine. It may 
well be allowed to bear eight runners, trained 
horizontally or vertically, according to the taste of 
the cultivator; of these, four may at the winter 
pruning, be shortened down to a single bud, and 
the four others intermediate be trained vertically in 
a serpentine form, so high as to give the number of 
buds to which you would limit your vine. The long 
branches will bear fruit the present year, throwing 
out a shoot at every bud, and every shoot bearing 
several clusters. These shoots are to be cut down 
to a single bud, at the next winter pruning. The 
intermediate four spurs or buds, will each send forth 
one shoot, which must be trained vertically between 
the bearing branches on the trellis, or building; 
those are to be the bearing wood for the next year. 




The above engraving illustrates the method 
adopted by many, of training vines upon wires run- 
ning through posts set in the ground, or wound 
around nails driven into the posts. The manner of 



24 CULTIVATION 

pruning can be readily understood by the figure, 
and by the directions given. In this mode, the 
vine may be perpetuated and kept within a rea- 
sonable compass. But if some such rule is not 
adopted, your vine will grow beyond your reach, 
and bear fruit only at the extremities, leaving an 
unsightly mass of large old branches near the 
ground. In this country, where if neglected, vines 
will sometimes cover an acre of ground, and become 
dead and worthless in a few years, it is necessary 
to look to its perpetuity by good cultivation, and 
keeping it in proper compass. It is proper in the 
spring of the year, to strip off the ragged bark and 
moss which gather around the trunk, which will 
otherwise become a harbor for insects, and have a 
bad appearance. Washing with soap-suds gives 
the trunk a clean and healthy appearance." 

Judge Woodruff, while on his European tour, in 
1828, distributing supplies to the suffering Greeks, 
says, " Dec. 28th, I called on Mr. Loring, and rode 
out on horseback with him toward Malaga, about 
five miles, and had the satisfaction to see scores of 
vine-dressers now employed with their pruning- 
hooks in the vineyards. They cut away every new 
branch at the old stock excepting three or four, and 
on these they leave but three or four buds for next 
year's growth. The stumps stand in rows about 
five feet apart, and when pruned have the appear- 
ance of dead shrub-oak stumps^ six or eight inches 
high." At Egina he says, " The vines are planted 
in rows three and a half feet distant from each other, 
and are suffered to grow about five feet high, rest- 



OF THE VINE. 25 

ing upon poles supported by crotches set in the 
ground. Many of the clusters weigh from three to 
seven pounds, and are suffered to rest their heavy 
heads upon the ground." It must be remembered 
that the vines of Europe are not of European origin ; 
they were imported from Asia two thousand years 
ago, and have become dwarfed and belittled by con- 
tinued pruning, until they now bear to be planted 
in hills about as thick as our Indian corn. Their 
severe pruning and long neglect to propagate from 
the seeds, are thought by many, to be the chief 
causes of the rot upon their grapes with which 
they are at present afflicted, and of the gradual de- 
terioration of their vines. I do not fully believe in 
the squm'e and compass system of too close pruning 
our American vines ; for our soil and climate, char- 
acterized by extremes of excessive heat, and abund- 
ant moisture, are adapted by nature for more vig- 
orous and extended growth. Over-cropping is det- 
rimental to the vine, and a part of the clusters of 
grapes, (some say two-thirds,) should be thinned 
out : the remainder will be larger, and will ripen 
better. Commence thinning soon after the berries 
are formed, and continue occasionally, until they 
attain more than one-half the ordinary size. Doivn- 
ing observes, that in order to obtain large and 
good looking fruit, " one-third of the berries should 
be taken off with the point of the scissors, espe- 
cially those in the center of the cluster ; and is to be 
performed when the berries are well set and formed." 



26 CULTIVATION 

•r 

DISEASE, INSECTS, ETC. 

Though the grape is a hardy plant and a pretty 
sure bearer, yet, like other precious gifts to man, it 
is not proof entirely against disease. The blight 
or rot is the principal evil, especially with the Ca- 
tawba variety in Ohio. This occurs about the time 
of hardening of the seed in July and August, after 
profuse rains and hot suns. It strikes suddenly, 
with disastrous effect. The cause is supposed to 
be an excess of water about the roots, and princi- 
pally in clayey, heavy soil. Vines in sandy soil 
with a gravelly or rocky substratum, are most gen- 
erally exempt from disease. Flowers of sulphur 
scattered over the vines in June and July, tend mate- 
rially to prevent the rot which is thought to be allied 
to mildew. It will prevent it in the grape under 
glass. Wood ashes are particularly valuable, scat- 
tered upon the ground, and hoed under in the 
spring; they tend to neutralize acidity of the soil, 
and supply the alkalies which are absorbed by the 
leaves and fruit. A moderate use of ashes tends 
to sweeten the flavor of every variety of fruit. In 
the month of June the rosebug sometimes makes 
its appearance while the vine is in bloom, and dis- 
pensing its flagrance around. It feeds upon the 
blossoms and leaves, but can be destroyed early in 
the morning by jarring the vine, when they will 
drop upon a sheet if placed beneath to receive them. 
Syringing the vine with soap-suds, lime-water, sul- 
phur-water, &c., has been tried with success. Rose- 



OF THE VINE. 27 

bushes standing near, will usually invite away the 
ugly pests. A large green worm is occasionally 
found depredating on the vine, as well as on other 
plants. It can readily be detected by its small black 
droppings on the ground underneath, and should 
be summarily dispatched. Reliable horticulturists 
advise to cover the whole surface of the vineyard, 
with shavings, spent tan, leaves and twigs of the 
vine, to prevent ravages of insects and disease of 
the fruit. Nature indeed, seems to indicate the 
leaves as the natural manure and protection for the 
roots of all plants. This we see abundantly ex- 
emplilfted, in the warm clothing which annually 
covers the roots of our forest trees, and without 
which they would make but a stinted growth. The 
vine is so remarkably healthy, and of such luxu- 
riant growth, in any proper soil, that diseases of its 
roots are almost unknown in this country. 

WINE MAKING. 

" Oh for a di-aught of vintage, that hath been 
Cooled a long age in the deep-delv'd earth." 

No uncommon skill is requisite in making good 
wine from grapes, and several other kinds of fruit. 
In New England w^here the people are so noted for 
all domestic comforts and conveniences of life, 
almost every family raises some kind of fruit, from 
which they can manufacture excellent wine with 
but little trouble or expense ; and in sickness or 
debility, where stimulus is proper to be administered, 



28 CULTIVATION 

how much more healthful — how much safer it is, 
to take the pure invigorating product of nature, 
than to drug the system with the deadly poisons, in 
which common wine and alcoholic liquors too often 
abound. I have made good wine from different 
varieties of the grape, from the Blackberry, the 
Elderberry, the Whortleberry, the English Cherry, 
the Currant, &c., and without the addition of any 
kind of ardent spirits. 

WINE FROM THE GRAPE. 

Where but a few gallons are to be made, the 
following plan has been found to work very well. 
Gather the grapes when fully ripe, and cast aside 
all which are unsound or immature ; put them into 
a clean tub or flour barrel, and then with a pounder 
or billet of wood with a square end, thoroughly 
mash the pulp and skins, but not the seeds ; put 
the pomace thus made into a clean coarse cloth or 
bag, (a common salt sack answers very well,) and 
put this into a basket over a tub to receive the 
juice or must. A cheese basket and ladder is best 
where it can be had. Now place stones or other 
heavy weight upon the mass, and in that manner 
let it remain in a moderately cool place from two 
to four days, according to the degree of pressure, 
and heat of the weather, when the juice will be 
found almost entirely expressed. A little water 
can then (if desired) be added to the pomace and 
thoroughly stirred together, and the pressure upon 



OF THE VINE. 29 

it renewed, which will extract the remainder of the 
liquid. 

This simple process of obtaining the juice, serves 
by its gradual operation to incorporate with the 
wine all of the peculiar musk or aroma of the skins, 
and imparts a delicious flavor to the wine. In this 
way I have procured seventeen and a half quarts 
of juice from each bushel of grapes — being about 
one-quarter more than is ordinarily obtained from 
the vintages in Ohio. The common black, w^hite, 
and purple, generally called Fox grapes, make a 
good high- flavored wine, and they can be found in 
abundance all over the states. The Isabella affords 
a pleasant lively wine of the richest flavor, but 
contains less of the musk so peculiar to the Fox 
grape. That quality, if relished, can be readily 
imparted to it by adding some of the other sorts, 
and pressing them together, or by mixing the wine 
afterward. Grapes in this latitude contain less 
saccharine matter than those which are raised farther 
south, and generally require sugar to be added in 
its manufacture. From one and a half to two and a 
half pounds per gallon, are to be incorporated with 
the juice immediately after it is pressed out, and 
before fermentation. I add about two and a half 
pounds of good sugar to each gallon of juice from 
the Fox grape, but for the Isabella, from one to two 
pounds is deemed sufficient. 

A gentleman in Virginia has a statement in the 
recent United States Patent Office report as fol- 
lows. " If the grapes are all very ripe, no sugar is 
4 



30 CULTIVATION 

required; but if a part are a little green, one pound 
of good brown sugar per gallon is as much as I 
have ever used. The grapes are bruised and put 
into a crib and pressed as for cider; the juice is 
then put into a clean cask and allowed to ferment. 
In a month the wine should be drawn off and put 
into another cask and stopped tight. No brandy 
or any kind of liquor should be put into the wine. 
The Catawba and Isabella are the only kinds 
cultivated here." 

It is ascertained that grapes which arc sweetest 
to the taste do not always make the best wine, as 
there is often a difference in the apparent sweetness 
and the sugary principle which may be latent in 
the grape. Mr. Longworth of Cincinnati, who is 
jjerhaps the most experienced and successful grape- 
grower in this country, writes as follows : " In wine 
making, to insure success we must observe great 
care in selecting the fruit. Select good sweet casks, 
and use cleanliness in expressing the juice. Keep it 
in a cool cellar, cask tight, and carefully rack the 
same yearly, till the wine is perfectly fine; for wines 
that have no alcohol added, require tight casks and 
cool cellars to keep them sound. They are less 
subject to run into the acetous fermentation with 
us, than they are in France and Germany. To the 
ropiness of which they complain, our wine is not 
subject. So much depends on manufacture and 
reputation in Europe, that wine from the same 
variety of grapes, and vines divided by a foot-path 
in the same vineyard, have very different reputation. 



OF THE VIiNE. 31 

The one will bring eighteen dollars per dozen, while 
its neighbor will not command three dollars." 

The Wine Press in Ohio, is made similar to our 
cider press. A strong, tight, box platform from 
five to seven feet square, of two or three inch plank, 
and six or eight inches high at the sides, is wedged 
into heavy timbers; and in this, a box of one and 
one-fourth inch boards, five or six feet square, per- 
forated with holes near the lower edge, and ten or 
twelve inches high, (made so as readily to be taken 
apart,) is placed to contain the mashed grapes. 
Boards or plank for a follower, are laid on top of 
the mass or cheese and inside of the box, and 
pieces of scantling or blocks are laid across, to 
receive the pressure from the screw, which is then 
turned down upon them. 

An improvement consisting of inch strips of 
boards, is sometimes laid across the platform, and 
boards perforated with holes are placed upon them 
as a bottom for the box which contains the cheese. 
From one hundred and fifty to three hundred gallons 
can be pressed out in a day. Instead of a box as 
above, can not a cheese of mashed grapes be laid 
up with straw sides, similar to our common method 
of cider making? The experiment could easily be 
tried. The wine obtained from the first pressing is 
invariably the best, and the quality will be accord- 
ing to each successive pressing. 



32 CULTIVATION 

FERMENTATION 

Is a process of much importance in wine making, 
and requires care and good judgment. 

Buchanan in his able, work on the grape, 1853, 
describes the process at Cincinnati as follows. 

" The casks are filled within five or six inches of 
the bung, and the bung put on loosely, the gas 
escapes without the wine running over; usually in 
two or three weeks the fermentation ceases, and 
the wine becomes clear ; then fill up the casks and 
tighten the bungs. In February or March rack off 
the wine into clean casks and bung tight. A 
second but moderate fermentation will take place 
late in the spring; after that the wine fines itself, 
and is ready for sale ; and if the casks are kept well 
filled and tight, it will improve for many years. 
Use no brandy or sugar if the grapes are sound 
(Catawba grapes.) Since the above was written? 
an improvement has been adopted by many in 
fermentation. When the must or juice is first put 
into the cask, and the cask filled within an eighth 
or tenth of its capacity (to leave room for fermenta- 
tion,) a tin siphon is fitted tight into the bung? 
with the other end of the tube in a bucket of water, 
thus permitting the gas to escape through the water 
without the wine coming in contact with the air ; 
some of the strength and fruity aroma are thus 
retained, which would otherwise escape by exposure 
in the methods formerly pursued. The safest way 
of keeping this wine is in bottles well corked and 



OF THE VINE. 33 

sealed, and laid on their sides in a cool place. It 
will do to bottle in about a year after it is made, 
but two years would be better." Writers differ as 
to the number of rackings it should receive, but 
Mr. Buchanan thinks that the fewer rackings and the 
less it is exposed to the air, the sweeter and better 
it will keep, and the better flavor it will retain. 
The casks ought to be new or perfectly cleansed, 
and should never be moved or agitated if possible 
after they are placed in the cellar, as that would stir 
up the lees and renew the fermentation, causing the 
wine to become acid. 

That the reader may more fully understand the 
nature and process of fermentation which is so 
essential in wine making, I insert the following 
useful article by .J. Brace, from the Western Horti- 
cultural Revieiv. " The fermenting or i/east princi- 
ple, is produced during vinous or first fermentation, 
from a vegetable gluten or gum, which exists in the 
juice of all fruits. This yeast or ferment is formed 
in greater or less quantity, as this gluten pervades 
more or less the fermenting mass ; hence that 
having a large quantity will produce an abundance 
of the stimulating or fermenting principle, and in 
many cases to the injury of the wine. In drawing 
the juice of the grapes by pressing, some parts will 
become more charged with this gum than others, 
unless the whole amount pressed at once is run 
into a single receiver, in which case there will be 
more uniformity in the process of fermentation, 
than if it is put into a number of casks during the 
4* 



34 CULTIVATION 

time it is running from the press. This gum or 
mucilage is held in solution in the juice, and is 
invisible before the fermentation commences, but 
so soon as that process begins, the clear liquor 
becomes turbid and a separation takes place ; some 
subsides and settles to the bottom, some becomes 
charged with carbonic acid gas, and floats on the 
top until the gas escapes, when it sinks to the 
bottom. This is the time to separate the wine 
from the superabundant yeast, as there will still be 
enough left to carry forward the fermentation with 
sufficient rapidity to insure a sound good wine. 
The wine then will not in all cases be clear, but if 
it is a little turbid it should be racked off" and the 
cask well washed out with cold water, and the 
wine returned into it to complete the fermentation. 
Some wine will not require a second racking off", as 
the separation from the ferment or lees, will have 
been sufficiently effected, and the fermentation 
during its future progress will be moderate enough 
to fine itself bright and clear; but if that should 
not be the case, and it still continues roily, some 
article should be added to fine it." (This will be 
noticed under the head oi fin'mg.) 

" Whenever the wine appears clear, it should be 
racked off", and in most cases it will become bright. 
The process of fermentation does not however stop 
here, as it is constantly progressing in the form of 
an insensible fermentation, elaborating and combin- 
ing the elements of the new and acrid, and produc- 
ing a mellowness of the wine that is only acquired 



OF THE VINE. 35 

by age. If the wine has been fined or separated 
too much from the lees dm*ing the first racking off, 
it will be thin and wanting in body, and deficient 
in aroma. This can only be remedied by adding 
substances to it that will strengthen it, whether 
sugar or spirit, but either will injure the quality, 
and the produce will not be of the fine flavor or 
mellowness that is indispensable to good wine. 
The strength of wine depends upon the amount of 
sugar contained in the juice; a portion of this 
sugar is decomposed, and its alcohol combined 
with another portion during the fermenting process; 
now if the fermentation is hurried too rapidly, and 
is not suspended at the proper time, the spirit will 
then by another fermentation (the acetous) be con- 
verted into vinegar^ and no manufacturing or 
doctoring will ever correct the wine after that change 
has occurred. The acid may be neutralized, but it 
will never be sound; for this reason a too rapid 
fermentation should be guarded against. Very 
iveak wines are more liable to become acid than 
strong ones; because the amount of alcohol elabo- 
rated when there is an abundance of sugar^ serves 
to check the rapid vinous fermentation, and prevent 
it from running into the acetous. I think the juice 
of well matured Catawba or Cape grapes, is strong 
enough to insure good wine without the addition 
of spirit or sugar." 

Mr. Spooner of Long Island, says, that to each 
gallon of juice from the Isabella, he added from 
one to three pounds of sugar. He thinks it best to 



36 CULTIVATION 

stop the fermentation before it quite subsides, in 
order to preserve the briskness and aroma of the 
wine; and this is done by repeated rackings into 
casks previously smoked with brimstone, by burn- 
ing in them rags dipped in melted sulphur. 

Major Adlum, formerly of Washington, says, "I 
have made wine from the common Fox grape, that 
was pronounced by Thomas Jefferson and others, 
equal to the Burgundy of Chambertin, one of the 
best wines in France, and it was at the time com- 
pared with Burgundy he had on bistable, imported 
by himself when he was president of the United 
States." 

WINE FROM GRAPE LEAVES. 

A gentleman of North Carolina writes in the 
United States Patent Office Report the following : 
"Having read that through the discovery by a 
French chemist, of some property in the vine leaves 
as in the fruit, good wine could be made of leaves 
only, I produced from leaves of the Scuppernojig 
grape, a wine that w^as pronounced by competent 
judges at our late State Fair, superior to foreign 
Port. It is made by steaming, say six bushels of 
leaves for a barrel of wine, in a box made of oak 
plank with a sheet copper bottom, placed over a 
furnace. The decoction as the result of such 
steaming, is mixed with one-third of spirit and one 
or two pounds of sugar per gallon." He says he 
makes good wine from immatwe grapes by adding 



OF THE VINE. 37 

sugar and spirits. He could have safely omitted 
the spirits^ for the juice of immature grapes with 
sufficient sugar will produce tolerably fair wine. 
In wine countries, the juice is often boiled down 
till its fermenting quality is destroyed, and its 
saccharine matter nearly doubled. This is also 
sometimes mixed with other wines to give them 
body and strength. To make a lively sparkling 
wine, it should be bottled before it has quite ceased 
fermenting, and a small piece of rock candy put 
into each bottle, will increase its briskness. In all 
wines, a^e adds to their soundness and value; and so 
highly is this prized, that in some of the wine- 
cellars of the Germans, it is found more than one 
hundred years old. The Imperial Tokay, has its 
name from a town in Hungary in which it is made, 
and it is sometimes sold in Europe at three or four 
dollars per bottle. It is made by mixing with their 
common grapes, a portion of luscious, half-dried, 
shriveled grapes ; the latter being absolutely neces- 
sary to constitute its peculiar quality. No art is 
used to fine this wine or to preserve it, and it soon 
finds its way into the cellars, or stomachs of the 
nobility. 

FINING WINE. 

Occasionally it occurs that in the process of 
fermenting, the wine does not settle, and become 
entirely clear after racking, and requires some sub- 
stance to precipitate the lees. This can be accom- 



38 CULTIVATION 

plished by artificial fining. It can be done in 
several ways, but Mr. Dufour, of Vevay, Indiana, 
recommended the following. " One egg to every 
six or ten gallons, according lo the quantity of lees 
in the wine. The eggs are first beaten until the 
ropiness is subdued, and then being put into a tub, 
wine is drawn on them by a spile hole from the 
cask which is to be fined, and while the wine is 
running, the eggs are at the same time churned or 
beaten very briskly until the tub is filled; the whole 
is then introduced into the cask again, which ought 
not to be quite full, for the churning will generate 
an abundant froth which is the very thing that fines 
the wine ; therefore it ought all to be put into the 
cask — then with a stick introduced by the bung, a 
good stirring is to be given to the top of the mass 
of the wine, and the bung made fast. It ought to 
be performed in a good clear day if possible." 

Another method is recommended by Mr. Spooner. 
"Draw off a gallon or more of wine, then take one 
quart of neiv milk from the cow, to which add two 
table spoonfuls of salt^ and one of siveet spirits of 
niter — mix it with the wine drawn, and pour it into 
your cask and stir it w^ell ; leave the bung loose for 
about twelve hours and then drive it tight, and in 
eight to twelve days it will be beautifully bright 
and will keep for ages, unless it should extract some 
fermenting principle from the wood of the cask." 



OF THE VINE. 6>) 

PROFITS OF THE VINEYARD. 

Profits / says the enterprising Yankee, — " if good 
profits can result from a vineyard, I'll look into the 
matter a little." Well then, if you are disposed to 
consider upon it, you can have the statements of 
good practical men, and then you may calculate, 
and whittle over the results, to your own satisfac- 
tion. We have the record of Mr. Buchanan, that 
the year 1853 in Ohio, was favorable, and the yield 
unusually large, averaging near Cincinnati, 650 gal- 
lons of wine to the acre; and from the best culti- 
vated vineyards, from 800 to 900 gallons. He 
states that he obtained from five acres, 4,236 gal- 
lons, or 847 gallons per acre. In some parts of the 
state the crop was shortened by the rot, and in 
many vineyards by careless cultivation, so that the 
average yield for the whole did not exceed 400 gal- 
lons to the acre." This wine commands from 75 
cents to $1.00 per gallon, at the press! The Ca- 
taioba is the kind principally cultivated in that sec- 
• tion, and is considered the best for wine, though 
the Isabella is used to some extent. In the sta- 
tistics of Mr. Resor, of Ohio, it appears that in 
^nine successive years after his father's vineyard 
commenced bearing, it produced equivalent to 
about 480 gallons per acre, each year. This vine- 
yard, however, was small and favorably situated, 
and under the care of a judicious proprietor, and 
the product should not be assumed as the average 
for the country. Their number of vines on an acre 



40 CULTIVATION 

is usually about 2,400, being planted about three 
feet by six. Dr. Underbill, of New York, remarks : 
" There is not a more profitable and certain crop, 
than the Isabella grape ; it will ripen where corn 
will, and not fail once in ten years." Mr. Long- 
worth justly observes, " Those who commence this 
business and conduct it properly, will makeTortunes 
by it," and we might reasonably conclude that he 
is correct, for it is stated in the papers at the west, 
that the tax on his own property is over $30,000 
annually ! the results of his extensive operations 
in American wine. He puts up from 100,000 to 
200,000 bottles of sparkling Catawba annually, 
which requires from fifteen to twenty months to 
ripen, and he owns about 130 acres of vineyard, cul- 
tivated by twenty-seven tenants, mostly Germans, 
with their families. Their women assist in the 
operations of the vineyard according to their usual 
custom in their native country. Mr. L. says, " that 
the grape culture will succeed and be profitable 
and our wine gradually grow into public favor, 
there can no longer be a doubt. Thus far, our 
wine has met with a ready sale in our own city, 
[Cincinnati;] but with the contemplated extension 
of the cultivation in this vicinity, we shall soon be' 
compelled to look abroad for a market." 

Says Mr. Buchanan, " Paper calculations of 
profits are often deceptive and sometimes mislead 
those not accustomed to act from their own judg- 
ment," and for sake of condensing estimates he 
gives the following. 



OF THE VINE. 41 

Cost of a vineyard per acre, say $250, interest $15 
<' " tending, " " " 60 

" " making the wine, per acre, say, 25 

$100 
Average annual product, say 200 galls., at $1, 200 



Supposed profit per acre, $100 

His estimate of the gallons per acre, would ap- 
pear to be below the usual quantity, as about 
double that quantity is very generally obtained. 

A gentleman in Midway, Ky., who cultivates the 
vine, writes, that wine can be made in his state as 
in France or Germany ; " that it can be made as 
cheap as cider, and at fifteen cents a gallon jWill 
pay better than any of their staple productions." 
" And now," says he, for the proof, " say an acre of 
vines will produce 400 gallons, which at fifteen 
cents is $60. Six hundred pounds of hemp on an 
acre of our best land at $5 per hundred, is $30 ; 
leaving a balance in favor of the wine of $30, or 
one hundred per cent, in its favor. An acre of 
corn, with us, will average fifty bushels, worth thirty 
cents per bushel, making $15. Balance in favor of 
the vineyard, per acre, $45. The expense of estab- 
lishing a vineyard will be balanced by the cost of 
seeds of hemp and corn sown annually, making all 
things equal in that respect. The tillage of the 
vineyard, and making wine, is not so laborious, nor 
near so expensive per acre, as the tillage and labor 
of securing the products of an acre of corn or hemp. 
5 



42 CULTIVATION 

If we could get one dollar per gallon for wine when 
ready for market, or fifty cents at the press, what a 
source of wealth it would be ! Set it down at half 
these figures and the gold mines of California 
would be poor in comparison. Only to think, that 
one hundred acres in vineyard, the product at fifty 
cents per gallon, amounts to $20,000 per annum! 
A man having five acres which he could manage 
himself, would find them more profitable than a 
Kentucky farm of two hundred acres, with three 
negroes to cultivate it." 

In referring to national advantages in this busi- 
ness, a writer in Putnam's Monthly, observes : " The 
actual returns from the departments of France, show 
a grand total of 924,000,000 of gallons, as the yearly 
produce, of which about 24,000,000 are exported. 
It is impossible to estimate the value of these wines, 
so various are the qualities and prices ; the vintage 
of a favorite year in some districts, will command 
double 'and treble the price of those preceding or 
succeeding; estimating the entire crop at fifteen 
cents the gallon, however, we find the net income 
reaches .the total of $138,600,000! and this from 
wine at five cents a bottle ! A sum more than suf- 
ficient to pay off our national debt, or purchase 
Cuba, or buy a large piece of South America ; per- 
haps enough to include the Amazon, and all in a 
single year. Here, in a country of such vast 
extent, embracing every climate, with hill-sides and 
plains favorable for the cultivation of the grape, 
and native vines overspreading the forests and 



OF THE VINE. 43 

marshes in almost every state, we, professing to be 
a great agricultural people, thus far, have closed 
our eyes to these great facts, and, except in a few 
instances, neglected to avail ourselves of the most 
fruitful source of national wealth ever within the 
reach of man ! Let us look at another fact. We 
have seen by Mr. Buchanan's report, that the 
average yield for the whole state of Ohio, was 
about 400 gallons of wine to the acre, including 
vineyards ill and well cultivated. The mean pro- 
duce per hectare in France, is 617 gallons ; a hec- 
tare being a little less than two acres and a half; 
equivalent to about 259 gallons to the acre. But, 
as we advance southward in our states, we find the 
vine still more luxurious in its growth. The famous 
Scuppernong sometimes covers acres with a single 
vine, the stalk of which is measured by feet in cir- 
cumference, and the weight of the grapes by tuns. 
So too, the Isabella is a most prolific bearer in this 
neighborhood. A gentleman in the country within 
an hour's ride of New York, planted a single acre 
with this favorite vine, and he estimates the prod- 
uce from it at four tuns of grapes per annum I 
As to the quality of American wine when compared 
with that of France, let him say who has tasted 
our common country wine, and the common wine 
of France. We have ventured to place our wines 
in comparison not with the Fm du pays^ but with 
the most famous vintages of Europe, and even then 
the verdict has usually resulted in favor of the 
American wine. So that in quantity and quality, we 



44 CULTIVATION 

may venture to vie with France at least, although the 
temerityof the act is almost equal to that, which once 
prompted us to cross bayonets with the veterans 
of King George the Third, of pious memory. Not 
alone in the production of wine is this great staple 
valuable. The seeds of grapes are eaten by birds 
and fowls ; and a fine fixed oil, similar to olive oil, 
is made from them in Parma, Lombardy, and other 
parts of Italy, suitable either for cooking, eating or 
burning in lamps. The cuttings are always salable 
to propagate new vineyards ; cattle are fond of the 
leaves ; the finest printer's ink is made from the 
charred stalks of old vines, and from the lees of 
wine we get cream of tartar, which no family 
should be without. And then the Raisins ! whether 
it be from the enormous crop of children raised 
annually in our states, or from some other unknown 
reason, we import more raisins than all the rest of 
the world put together ! Three times as many as 
England, seven and a half times as many as 
France, thirteen times as many as Germany, four- 
teen times as many as Holland, twenty-one and a 
quarter as many as Italy, and two hundred and 
fifty times as many as his majesty the Czar. To 
the rising generation, or citizens in the pod, this is 
of more consequence than all the rest." 

Matter like the foregoing might be multiplied, but 
it may be best to refrain, for should it happen to 
induce an excitement in Yankeedom like the Rohan 
or Multicaulis frenzy, the result would be no more 
desirable, than the blame of being the innocent 



OF THE VINE. 45 

cause of it. It appears quite evident, however, 
that the vine is not an exhausting crop ; that it will 
thrive on poor, sandy or rocky soil, and requires but 
little manure ; that the labor required is light and 
agreeable, the calling an ancient and honorable 
one ; and if the business is a paying- one, then why 
don't you engage in it ? 

TEMPERANCE. HEALTHFULNESS OF THE GRAPE. 

" What ! In favor of temperance, and advocating 
the raising of grapes and the production of wine ? 
Wonder if the writer is a friend to temperance." 
Yes sir ; and one of its earliest advocates too. 
Enlightened and benevolent minds are now labor- 
ing in every state in the union to advance the cause 
of temperance, and though all may doubtless be 
patriotic "and honest in motive, yet in e.very good 
work men differ in opinion as to the most effectual 
mode of its accomplishment.* Reliable statistics 
convince us, that the importation of wine has fallen 
far behind the rate of increase of population in 

* In e\^ery" period of man's history the vine is alluded to as a 
blessing, and its culture has been coeval with his existence. It is 
often referred to in Scripture as a blessing, and the vintage was 
ever hailed as a time of gladness and festivity, to all the region 
around. Reference to this was made by Isaiah in his predic- 
tions concerning Moab. " And gladness is taken away, and joy 
out of the plentiful field ; and in the vineyards there shall be no 
singing, neither shall there be any shouting : the treaders shall 
treacFout no wine in their presses; I have made their vintage 
shouting to cease." 

5* 



46 CULTIVATION 

England and America, while the production and 
consumption of alcoholic liquors has increased in a 
most astounding proportion. A writer well posted 
up on this subject, remarks : " In non-winegrowing 
countries where the use of wine is interdicted 
by extravagant duties, the consumption of spirits 
increases in an alarming degree. England, with a 
population of 24,000,000, consumes 28,000,000 gal- 
lons of spirits, exclusive of porter, ale and beer; 
while France, with a population of 33,000,000, con- 
sumes but 15,000,000 gallons of her own brandies, 
and of those a large proportion is used in manufac- 
tures, in fortifying wines for shipment, and in the 
preparation of fruits and confections made only in 
her own territories. The manufacture of whiskey, 
spirits, and ale, for home consumption in the United 
States, amounts to 86,000,000 of gallons annually : 
this is exclusive of exports I In regard to the high 
duties on wines in England, Redding says, " The 
enormity of the duty is the cause of the diminished 
consumption of wine. In the year 1700, the popu- 
lation of England was 5,475,000, and wine con- 
sumed, a little less than 6,000,000 gallons per 
annum. In 1851, the population was 17,922,000, 
while the consumption of wine was only 6,448,517 
gallons. It is clear that the people of England one 
hundred and fifty years ago, drank three times as 
much wine, in proportion, as they do now. The 
natural consequence has been the increased con- 
sumption of spirits. From 1730 to 1830, the "con- 
sumption of British made spirits increased from 



OF THE VINE. 47 

873,840 gallons to 7,732,101, keeping pace with the 
increase of crime ; as if not only the temperature 
of the atmosphere, but the amount of misery, 
poverty and crime, were to be gauged by alcohol. 
Ireland, in 1821, paid duty only on 2,649,170 im- 
perial gallons of home-made spirits, but in 1828, 
on no less than 9,004,539 gallons. There were 
made in England, Ireland and Scotland, in the year 
ending January 5th, 1850, 22,962,000 gallons. It 
is, therefore, a fact, however much of an anomaly 
it may appear, that inebriety in that country, has 
increased with the diminution of the wine con- 
sumption, and morals^ as well as healthy have suf- 
fered by the same decrease, and the augmented use 
of ardent spirit. We profess a high regard for 
public morals, and talk about improving the condi- 
tion of the common people ; yet, in typhus, which 
ravages England so fearfully, wine, the main 
remedy, is shut out from the poor, while its liberal 
administration is necessary. Thus the people are 
encouraged to drink ardent spirit in consequence ; 
but then the revenue profits ! " 

A very distinguished physician and horticulturist, 
Dr. Kirtland, of Ohio, in an article on the cultiva- 
tion of the grape, writes : " I look upon this subject 
with great interest. During an extensive practice 
in the medical profession, of more than twenty-five 
years, I have frequently found it important to 
employ wine, and other diffusible stimulants as 
medicines. Whatever other medical men may say 
or think of the matter, I must state that I can not 



48 CULTIVATION 

in all instances, find in the Materia Medica, a sub- 
stitute for them ; and while I am disposed to go as 
far as any one in excluding strong drinks from the 
daily use of people in health, I must express my 
satisfaction at finding we can produce in our own 
country a pure^ healthy ivine, well adapted to 
medical purposes, and far superior to the adul- 
terated, poisonous foreign compounds that often find 
their way to the bedsides of the sick, under the 
names of ' Lisbon,' ' Madeira,' &c., &c." Dr. Flagg, 
in his report to the Cincinnati Horticultural Society, 
observes : " I am confident that the introduction of 
pure light wines as a common beverage, will pro- 
duce a great national and moral reform ; one that 
will be received by our temperance brethren ere 
long as a national blessing; one that will complete 
the work they have already begun. The temper- 
ance cause is rapidly preparing public sentiment 
for the introduction of pure American wine. So 
long as public taste remains vitiated by the use of 
malt and alcoholic drinks, it will be impossible to 
introduce light pleasant wines except to a limited 
extent; but just in proportion as strong drinks are 
abandoned, a more wholesome one will be substi- 
tuted. Instead of paying millions to foreigners as 
we now do, for deleterious drinks, as brandy and 
wines, let us produce from our own hill-sides, a 
wholesome beverage that will be within the reach 
of all — the poor as well as the rich." An intel- 
ligent traveler observes, that " among the rural 
population of France, Italy and Spain, light wines 



OF THE VINE. 49 

are in common use among all classes, and we have 
heard it remarked in derision, that give a man of 
this class a piece of bread, a few dry figs or dates, 
a little sweet oil, and a bottle of claret, and he will 
feast like a lord and be happy. This mode of 
living is coeval with the introduction of the vine 
and olives of those countries ; and where a man is 
found indulging in the use of strong drinks, he is 
the subject of remark and commiseration by his 
friends and acquaintance. In Havana, all classes 
make free use of wines ; yet, in a population of 
20,000 souls, it is a rare thing to hear of a Creole 
or Spaniard who is in the habit of using distilled 
spirits." 

Judge Woodruff in his travels observes : " Since 
my arrival in Europe, and throughout my tour 
thus far, I have often been led to the most painful 
reflections, upon the intemperate use of ardent 
spirits, which so alarmingly prevails in my own 
country. It is with great satisfaction I am 
waranted to say, that while in Greece, Asia Minor, 
Malta, Tunis, Port Mahon and Spain, in the whole 
about six months, I never saw a native of either of 
these countries in any degree intoxicated; but 
in most of them, many English, Scotch, Irish, 
Russians, and (I blush for shame when I say it) 
Americans^ in a state of sottish drunkenness. 
These are wine countries. It has often been 
remarked, that the inhabitants of all such countries, 
are distinguishable from others, by their disuse of 
intoxicating liquors. This is literally correct, so far 



50 CULTIVATION 

as I have had opportunity of judging. The wines 
generally drank there, possess but a small degree 
of intoxicating properties, not even as great as the 
well wrought cider of New England, and are the 
common every-day beverage at the table. It is 
said by the wine merchants and wine adulterers of 
the United States, that it is necessary to add spirits 
to all imported wine in order to prepare it for a sea- 
voyage, and prevent an acetous fermentation. This 
is not true^ and is used only as a pretense, under 
which they drug and poison most of their wines, 
increasing the quantity by articles of less value, 
thereby enabling themselves to increase their profits. 
All foreign wines, properly fermented, suffer no 
detriment by the longest voyages, and through the 
warmest latitudes, but rather increase in their rich- 
ness and flavor. Temperance in eatings also, is not 
less remarkable and praiseworthy among these 
people, than temperance in drinking. It is indeed 
astonishing to an American to observe with how 
small a quantity of animal food, the Greeks and 
Turks sustain themselves, and preserve their health, 
activity and strength. No people have I yet seen 
who possess all these in a higher degree. Much 
the greater part of the animal food they use, is 
cooked in soups, with an abundance of vegetables 
of various kinds. These soups rest lightly and 
easily upon the stomach, and impart health and 
vigor to the constitution." The Horticulturist 
sensibly remarks : " Very few Americans except 
those who have traveled abroad, estimate properly 



OF THE VINE. 51 

the moral value of pure light wines, because they 
very rarely find their way across the Atlantic. As 
hocks, or claret, contain only about eight or nine per 
cent of alcohol, they are far more wholesome than 
coffee, and the cheap production of such wines will 
do more to decrease the consumption of ardent 
spirits, than any other circumstance." 

President Jefferson said, " No nation is drunken 
where wine is cheap; and none sober where the 
dearness of wine substitutes ardent spirits as the 
common beverage." An intelligent American, Mr. 
Fisher, after a residence of six years in the wine 
districts of Europe, writes : " I have passed three 
years in France, where I never saw a drunken 
Frenchman — eighteen months in Italy, and in that 
time not an Italian intoxicated — nearly two years 
in Switzerland, of which I can not say the same, 
but I can safely aver, that during that period I did 
not see twenty drunken Swiss, and whenever my 
feelings were thus pained, it was invariably on an 
occasion of extraordinary festivity. In the argu- 
ment therefore, which may be fairly urged in favor 
of the cultivation of wine, a strongly inciting 
motive addresses our personal interests, and invites 
us to adopt a system, by which our resources will 
be increased, and our agriculture improved." We 
are told that fresh and dried grapes are both favora- 
ble to health and longevity. Ripe grapes have 
been administered to whole regiments of French 
troops who have been ravaged with fluxes and 
dysenteries, and a cure was soon effected. The 



52 



CULTIVATION 



murk or pomace is given to poultry and animals, 
and is also used in tanning leather, giving it a fine 
odor, and the leaves are eaten by cattle, giving a 
fine fragrance to hay when mixed with it. 

Dr. Underhill, at a meeting of the Farmer's Club 
held at the room of the American Institute, New 
York, said : " I am asked to speak on the grape 
question, but I can not in the space of an hour give 
a proper view of it ; I will therefore but sketch I 
The grape is immortalized in history, poetry, in 
Scripture, in painting. The tendrils of the grape 
have enwrapped the heart of man in every country 
where it grows. The grape is so delicious, so 
salutary — diluting the blood, and causing it to flow 
easily through the v^ns, and there is nothing equal 
to it for old age. In this country its use will grow, 
will increase until its consumption will be prodi- 
gious. It will supplant some of the articles which 
destroy men, and establish the cheerful body in 
place of the bloated, diseased systems of the intem- 
perate. No disease of the liver, no dyspepsia, are 
found among those who freely eat the grape. This 
remarkable fact is stated in reference to the vine- 
yard portions of France. Persons who are sickly 
in grape countries, are made well when grapes are 
ripe, and this result is familiarly called the grape 
cure. In this country, our attention has often been 
misdirected, and we have spent years and sums of 
money on imported vines. We have proved the 
fallacy of all this, for the foreign grape will not 
flourish in our open air. It thrives only under glass. 



OF THE VINE. 53 

I suppose that millions of dollars have been lost on 
these foreign vines during the last century. Cli- 
mate has settled that question. Time will show 
that our native stock of grapes will by cultivation 
gradually improve in quality. It is with them as 
with animals, great amelioration follows care and 
proper knowledge. I spent some thousands of 
dollars on the foreign grape vines, without success. 
We want to supply our twenty-five million of peo- 
ple with fine grapes! In 1830, France produced 
14,000,000,000 pounds of grapes, of which, were 
consumed on the tables and exported in the form of 
raisins, &c., 2,000,000,000 pounds. 

Are you afraid that our market will be over- 
stocked with the few vineyards which we have? 
There are many books on the culture of the vine, 
but their doctrines are generally not at all applicable 
to our country. Europe has the moisture from the 
ocean — we have the dry winds blowing over our 
continent. More heat penetrates our ground in 
one of our bright, hot days, than England has in a 
week. The books of Europe are an honor and an 
ornament to the world, but they lead us from the 
truth frequently. Such is the great difference 
between the climates of Europe and America. 
We must here select our best native grapes — there 
are many — of which we have now proved the 
Isabella and Catawba to be excellent. Plant the 
vines deep, on dry soil, on slaty, calcareous, or 
other soils, but the dryer they are, the better for the 
grape. The roots must be deep to avoid oar severe 
6 



54 CULTIVATION 

droughts. Plow or dig your ground exceedingly- 
deep, before you plant your vineyard. I have found 
that in seven years' culture, the savage musk of my 
Isabella has vanished, and its character is greatly 
changed for the better. Its pulp is almost gone, 
and its seeds are less. The culture of the vine has 
one great and eminent advantage over all other 
crops. If you plant it well, you will get an increas- 
ing crop for twenty-five years; and for every year 
(with rare exceptions) a good crop even for seventy- 
five years, and on our native vines you can have 
double the quantity which is obtained from a vine 
in Europe, where it has from ages of short pruning, 
become feeble, and past its perfection. We do not 
let our vines bear one-half as many grapes as they 
would if all were left on. Thin them out well, and 
you will have better and richer fruit." 

From the Genesee Farmer^ 1854 : " The use of 
grapes as an article of food, is much recommended 
in cases of consumption. They contain a large 
quantity of grape sugar, the kind which most nearly 
resembles milk sugar in its character and composi- 
tion, which is also useful for consumptives, it having 
a great attraction for oxygen, and readily aflfording 
materials for respiration." 

The writer is not to be understood as fully in- 
dorsing all which has been or might be quoted in 
favor of the daily and free use of wine by persons 
in health, but rather is desirous of sustaining the 
opinion substantiated by reliable evidence and 
by common sense, that the home production and 



OF THE VINE. 55 

judicious use of our native wines will, by correct- 
ing the vitiated taste, exclude the consumption of 
the drugged foreign kinds, and divert the national, 
reprehensible passion for alcoholic stimulus, into a 
more genial channel "which cheers but not inebri- 
ates" — which invigorates health, but blunts not the 
reason and moral sensibilities of man. This world 
although bearing unmistakable and pleasing evi- 
dence of progress, is not yet so sublimated and pure 
as to crusade upon all customs and rites of past 
ages ; nor will the Christian churches be likely soon 
to inhibit the production of an article, so common 
and essential in the solemn rites of the Christian 
communion. But well might they pause and ask, 
whether the thing which they honor by the name 
of ivine, and ordinarily procure for those purposes, 
is the pure symbol which our Great Master ordained 
for the sacrament? In reality, is it not sometimes 
a fact that they undesignedly use for that sacred 
purpose, a substance disguised with compounds, 
among the ingredients of which are not to be found 
upon analysis, one single particle obtained pure 
from the vintage. 



VARIETIES FOR THE NORTH. 

There is such a diversity in tastes and opinions 
among grape-growers, that had I any reputation to 
loose as a very extensive cultivator, ii^might not be 
prudent to give an absolute preference for a single 
one^ among so good a variety as we can so easily 



56 CULTIVATION 

procure. For latitude 40 to 45 there are, at'least, 
three or four native kinds, (besides the common Fox 
grapes,) which appear to withstand the climate, 
and bear abundantly. 

Let it be distinctly understood, that in all the 
foreign kinds, not one has been brought to notice 
as yet, which has proved its general adaptation for 
open culture in our climate. Not only my own 
experience, but scores of others have determined 
this fact. Some years ago forty acres were planted 
on Long Island, with 150,000 foreign vines of 
various sorts. But after some years of effort and 
expense, the proprietor was doomed to disappoint- 
ment and finally abandoned the enterprise. The 
Swiss of Vevay, Indiana, who, many years ago, 
planted a number of acres with foreign varieties, 
were unsuccessful until they were forced to abandon 
them, and substitute our native kinds in their stead. 

The Isabella grape, unquestionably, stands first 
in estimation of the public, as to quality and pro- 
ductiveness in this latitude. It is believed to be a 
native of South Carolina, and singular to say, is 
even more prolific here, than at the south! It was 
obtained from thence by the wife of George Gibbs, 
Esq., of Brooklyn, about 1816, and in compliment 
to her, it was christened by her name, Isabella. By 
judicious culture it has now become acclimated to 
the north, and is raised throughout New England, 
and to some extent in Canada. It is found that its 
period of ripening has been shortened since its first 
introduction here, and it now comes to maturity, 



OF THE VINE. 57 

from one to two weeks earlier than formerly. It has 
a thin skin, and tender pulp, juicy and fine flavor, and 
is an abundant bearer. It produces a wine similar 
to light Madeira, requiring from one to two pounds 
of sugar per gallon in its fermentation. It ripens 
in the latter part of September. 

The Cataivba grape was discovered in North 
Carolina, in 1802, and has since been found on the 
Arkansas river, in about the same latitude. Its 
merits as a wine grape, were first brought to notice 
by Major John Adlum,of Washington, D. C, some 
thirty years ago, and so sanguine was he of its 
superior properties for wine^ that he remarked that 
in bringing this grape into notice, he had conferred 
a greater favor on his country, than if he had 
paid off the national debt. Its period of ripening 
is a little later than the Isabella, and requires with 
us, a favorable season for its perfect maturity. It 
is not so full a bearer as the Isabella, but for wine 
it is preferred to any other kind — particularly at 
the south and west. A superior variety, called the 
Hartford Prolific^ has recently come into notoriety 
at Hartford, Conn., which bids fair to excel in some 
desirable points. It is probably a seedling from 
the Isabella, and has improved upon the good char- 
acter of its illustrious parent, by ripening about 
two weeks earlier — say in the early part of Septem- 
ber — a recommendation much in its favor, especially 
in seasons which ajre not propitious for other kinds. 
In its taste, it is distinguished from the Isabella by 
a slight muskiness, which is relished by many. 
6* 



58 CULTIVATION 

Its name Prolific^ indicates its fruitful character, 
which has been fully tested by Mr. P. D. Stillman, 
of Hartford, and others. Mr. S., informs me that 
he has a vine four years old, from the cutting, which 
bears from three to four hundred fine clusters an- 
nually, and from what I have seen and tasted of 
them, I am satisfied that this variety is an impor- 
tant acquisition. 

Another grape called the Concord^ has lately 
occasioned a little extra excitement around Boston, 
and has been honored with some pretty large puffs 
in the papers. Few in this region have ventured 
to cultivate an acquaintance with it at the price 
demanded, ($5 per root,) especially as they do not 
discover anything in its taste or appearance quite 
equal to all which is claimed for it. It is, however, 
a good grape, and is perfectly hardy. It has a 
bloom similar to the Black Hamburg, and ripens 
about the middle of September. 

The Diana. This is a seedling from the Ca- 
tawba, and is an improvement upon that variety, 
by its ripening a little earlier, say between that and 
the Isabella. It is somewhat smaller than either of 
the other two — has less pulp, and is thought by 
many to be a rich grape. It was raised by Mrs. 
Diana Crehore, of Boston, and was named by the 
Mass. Horticultural Society. The Cape Grape 
is a kind from which good \vine is made at the 
west,— is a plentiful bearer and a native of Penn- 
sylvania. 

The famous Scuppernong-, of North Carolina, 



OF THE VINE. 59 

says Longworth, bears from one to four berries on 
a bunch, and would in time of war, if lead be 
scarce, even when fully ripe, be as valuable as the 
Fox Grape for bullets. The berries, however, are 
large, sometimes measuring four inches in circumfer- 
ance. It is not hardy at the north. The American 
Pomological Society, which met in Boston, Sep- 
tember, 1854, recommended three kinds — the Ca- 
tawba^ Diana and Isabella^ as being the best for 
general open cultivation, and their judgment is 
concurred in by other successful fruit-growers. 
They might, however, have with propriety, added 
the Hartford Prolific to the number. It is unnec- 
essary to enumerate a large number, among the 
hundreds of varieties which are indigenous to our 
country, for with the grape as with other fruits, a 
feiv choice^ established kinds, are better than the 
whole catalogue enumerated in our nurseries. 



VINEYARDS IN THE UNITED STATES. 

" The vine too, here her curling tendrils shoots ; 
Hangs out her clusters, glowing to the south ; 
And scai-cely wishes for a Avarmer sky." 

It appears from numerous records, that the vine 
was found in North America at a very early period. 
Adventurers from the north of Europe, found their 
way to the northern part of this continent, as early 
as] the ninth or tenth centuries, according to the 
published researches of eminent historians, and long 
before the western voyage of Columbus. In the 



60 CULTIVATION 

year 1001, they coasted along from Greenland, as 
far south as New England, where they found the 
vine in such profusion, that they gave the land a 
name expressive of its produce, and called it " Win- 
land dat GodeJ'' (the good Vineland.) We are 
also told, that when the first settlers of New Eng- 
land came, they found vines growing wild on the 
hills, and Indian corn on the plains, just as the 
Northmen did centuries before them. The earliest 
attempts at vine cultivation in the United States, 
were made by the London Company, who estab- 
lished a vineyard in Virginia, about the year 1620. 
In that year, over 1200 emigrants arrived, and it is 
supposed that the vines were brought with them 
from France at that time. The infant colony had 
heretofore been extremely unfortunate, and great 
efforts were made to place them in a more flour- 
ishing condition. Most of them were in single life, 
and in order to attach them permanently to the 
country, about ninety young women were prevailed 
upon to embark for the colony. Upon their arrival, 
no difficulty was experienced in finding agreeable 
partners, — the price of a wife being about 150 
pounds of tobacco. Thus, with the tendrils of 
domestic affection, and the tendrils of the vine, it 
was fondly hoped that brighter and happier days 
would shine upon them. But alas! in three years 
after, 847 of their number fell in one hour, by the 
hands of the remorseless savage. From this time, 
we hear nothing more respecting their vineyard. 
Master Ralph Sone, in 1585, says of the grapes 



OF THE VIxNE. 61 

found in this country, " Grapes of suche greatnesse 
yet wild, as France, Spain nor Italie have no 
greater." Dufour, an intelligent Swiss settler at 
Vevay, Indiana, states that the Jesuits had a suc- 
cessful vineyard on the Mississippi, when that 
country belonged to the French, but were finally 
ordered by the French government to destroy it for 
fear that the culture of the grape in this country 
would hurt the wine trade of France. We are told 
also, that Spain interdicted the planting of vine- 
yards in Mexico, apprehending danger to the wine 
interest of their own country. Indeed, they rea- 
soned correctly, that from the luxuriance of the 
American vine, their craft would be in danger, — 
that the days of our dependence on the old countries 
for wine, would soon be numbered. Numerous 
vineyards have been planted, and considerable wine 
made in our country at various periods ; but, to 
Nicholas Longworth, of Cincinnati, who com- 
menced vine culture about thirty years since, are 
we indebted for a great deal of reliable knowledge 
upon this interesting and useful subject. He has 
spent much time and money in the business, and 
has generously given to the public, the pleasing 
results of his exertions. 

In the Patent Office Report, 1854, is an article 
which exhibits the present magnitude of the wine 
interest in this country. It is from the Cincinnati 
Republican. " The grape culture and wine interests 
of our community, are fraught with very consid- 
erable importance now, and must eventually become 



62 CULTIVATION 

a great and absorbing feature of the state's property. 
Fields of waving corn or golden-tasseled wheat are 
fair to the view; but picture to yourself the vast 
vineyards that shall anon deck the hill and dale, 
with gorgeous and tempting, rich, red, ripe Isabellas 
or Catawbas. The third year after planting the 
slips, the production of wine may be commenced 
from the fruit. There is more expense and labor 
in commencing the cultivation of the vines, than is 
probably attendant upon the planting of the usual 
crops, but less afterward. From one acre well 
planted with healthy vines, probably from $600 to 
$1,000 worth of wine may be produced in good 
seasons. This wine has generally brought $1 per 
gallon here, but this year will probably bring $1.25. 
Notwithstanding the immense annual increase of 
the quantity of wine manufactured in the west, 
the price continues to improve, and it must do so as 
the wine becomes more generally known. This 
year, notwithstanding the increase, the price has 
raised nearly twenty-five per cent., and the demand 
for wine is much greater than last year. So must 
this demand continue increasing. 

" In Ohio there are about fifteen hundred acres of 
land exclusively devoted to grape-growing, between 
three and four hundred of which, are near Cincin- 
nati. Within twenty miles of this city, including 
a part of Kentucky on the opposite side of the 
river, there are thirteen hundred acres, and double 
that quantity of vines. More have been planted 
this year than there were last. In Missouri near 



OF THE VINE. 63 

Hermann, there are five hundred acres — in Indiana, 
two or three hundred — in Illinois about one hun- 
dred; and in Kentucky the same — making about 
twenty-five hundred acres in all. It is estimated 
that Indiana, Ohio and Kentucky, will this year 
produce at least half a million gallons of wine ! 
The yield on some of the vineyards will be equal 
to seven or eight thousand gallons — allowing 
twenty-four hundred vines to the acre, planted 
about three feet apart each way. Mr. Robert 
Buchanan, who is among the most successful cul- 
tivators of the vine, this year obtains about eight 
hundred gallons of wine from each acre, which will 
net him about seven hundred dollars per acre I 
Some other vineyards will do equally well. Persons 
however, are not advised to embark in grape-grcAv- 
ing with the expectation of profit, if it shall be 
necessary to hire labor. The German vine-dressers 
muster all capable members of their family into 
the service — the wife often being the most efficient. 
In this manner they realize an adequate income. 
It has been customary to give a piece of land of 
say fifteen or twenty acres, with a house on it, to 
those Germans, on condition that the tenant shall 
plant a certain quantity of grapes each year in a 
proper manner, and pay the proprietor one-half the 
proceeds of the vineyard. 

" The fruit is purchased of the vineyard man, for 
from five to six dollars per one hundred pounds, (or 
two bushels) each bushel yielding three and a half 
to four gallons of wine. It is then mashed by the 



64 CULTIVATION 

manufacturers in the city, and pressed. The juice 
is then fermented in the cellars, and the sparkling 
Catawba is in prime order for market at the end of 
fifteen or twenty months. A few days ago we 
visited the wine-vaults of Mr. Longworth, and the 
following facts were derived. There are three 
vaults, one of which will turn out fifty thousand 
bottles every year, and another one hundred thou- 
sand bottles yearly of dry wine. Some portion of 
the cellars is occupied by immense butts or cylin- 
drical tanks, one of which holds five thousand 
gallons, or five thousand dollars worth of wine if 
bottled. The staves are about three inches in thick- 
ness, and the heads curved inward, so as to intro- 
duce the arch to resist the internal pressure. Other 
objects quite as noticeable, are the long rows of 
black bottles placed in a horizontal position, and 
stacked up like cord wood in solid piles as high as 
one's neck. In the cellars of the extensive native- 
wine establishments of Longworth and Zimmer- 
man, are twenty-four casks, holding about twenty- 
five hundred gallons each, or sixty thousand gallons 
altogether, of the vintage of 1850-51-52, and it is 
expected to store twenty-five thousand gallons of 
this year's wine. 

" Mr. Longworth will this year have on hand, for 
sale, about two hundred thousand bottles of Spark- 
ling Catawba ; Messrs. Longworth and Zimmerman 
some sixty thousand bottles of Dry Catawba, 
exclusive of a quantity of wine sufficient for one 
hundred and ninety thousand bottles; Messrs. 



OF THE VINE. 65 

Bogen, Cornew and Son, Work and others, from 
ninety to one hundred thousand bottles of Catawba." 
A writer in New York says: "In our own state 
there is already much wine made from the Isabella 
grape — in Orange county — in Columbia county — 
among the Shakers — and on the banks of the Hud- 
son in the neighborhood of the city. We have 
tried many of these wines, and although want of 
experience and improper treatment are manifest, yet 
there is sufficient merit in them, to insure us in the 
prediction, that the grape culture will soon prove to 
be one of the most valuable fields for enterprise 
ever presented to the people of the state of New 
York. Here is the soil, here the climate for the 
Isabella; as Ohio is to the Catawba, so will this 
state be to this grape. Here, too, is the market, so 
the cost of transportation will be trifling ; and the 
day may not be far off when ships shall lay beside 
the rich vineyards on the Hudson's banks, to receive 
the golden fraughtage for distant Europe. In com- 
paring our wines with those of Europe, we must 
bear in mind that they are distinct in flavor from 
any, or all of them. Sparkling Catawba is not 
Champagne, nor can Isabella be compared with 
any other wine known in the world. It is a pecu- 
liarity of these wines that no spurious compounds 
can be made to imitate them, and in purity and 
delicacy, there is none equal to them." The most 
expensive wine in Europe is the Tokay, and it is 
also the lowest in alcoholic per-centage, being 9.85. 
But we find by the analysis of Dr. Chilton, that 
7 



66 CULTIVATION 

Still Catawba shows a per-centage of only 9.50 — 
being in fact, the lowest proportion of spirit to be 
found in any wine in the world ! By the United 
States census statistics of 1840, there were pro- 
duced of domestic wine 124,734 gallons, and in 
1850, 221,249 gallons. This estimate is doubtless 
much less than the quantity actually produced, as 
material inaccuracies in collecting our statistics, are 
obvious to those who, like the writer, have been 
employed in the compilation of its cumbrous 
returns. The Commissioner of Patents estimates, 
that for the year 1853, no less than two million 
gallons was the produce of that year in the United 
States, and its value about two million dollars. In 
some parts of Massachusetts vineyards are begin- 
ning to be introduced for wine production, and 
though not many vineyards are yet noticeable in 
Connecticut, still some hundreds of gallons of wine 
are now annually made, and chiefly from the Fox 
grapes, which grow in a wild state so abundantly. 

FOREIGN VINEYARDS. 

It is a matter of serious interest to our nation, 
that the vine throughout Europe, appears to be 
entering upon its period of decline. The genius 
and glory of the Old World are on the wane, and 
will soon be eclipsed by our mighty fabric of free- 
dom, and the generous vine, as if in sympathy with 
its fond guardians, unclasps its tendrils, and with- 
ers in the blight of empires! 



OF THE VINE. 67 

A blast or mildew attacks the fruit soon after it 
begins to form, and increasing with its growth, 
extends to the leaves, and soon covers the whole 
vine, which speedily dies. The United States con- 
sul for Portugal, Mr. Pike, writes to Mr. Marcy, 
Secretary of State, January 7th, 1854. "I have 
seen whole vineyards near Oporto in this condi- 
tion, having the appearance of being dried by a 
scorching sun. IMany of the farmers in the vicinity 
who made from twenty to thirty pipes of wine in 
former years, have not been able to produce more 
than five pipes the last vintage, and then by care- 
fully picking the fruit. I have discovered the 
fungus on the fairest and best fruit, which has been 
carefully selected by myself for examination. 
Many cases have come under my observation, of 
sickness at the stomach and vomiting, after eating 
the fruit that is diseased. Brandies and wines 
have advanced in price one hundred per cent., and 
are still advancing. As wine and oil are the princi- 
pal products of this country, the consequences of a 
failure of them will be a great calamity." 

An intelligent writer before quoted remarks : 
" There is not an indigenous grape in Europe. 
The stock is of Asiatic origin, and both history and 
fable unite in attributing it to the Orient. The 
Phoenicians introduced its culture on the islands of 
the Archipelago, in Greece, in Sicily; lastly in Italy 
and in the territories of Marseilles. Thence it 
extended over the whole south of France, and the 
Johnny Crapeaus had their claret and olives; and 



68 



CULTIVATION 



probably drank to the health of Nebuchadnezzar 
when he captured Jerusalem, June 9th, 587 years 
B. C. The next important event connected with 
its history, was the succession of Domitian the 
cruel and rapacious, who ordered its extirpation as 
well as the extirpation of Christianity. Two hun- 
dred years after, the wise and valiant Probus 
restores to Gallia Antiqua, liberty to plant vines. 
The remembrance of that culture, and of the great 
advantage procured by it, was not yet all gone from 
the memory of men ; for tradition had kept even 
the details most necessary in the art of vine-dressing. 
The vines brought again from Sicily, Greece, the 
Archipelago, and Africa, became the origin of those 
innumerable species of grapes that now cover 
France. It was a charming and grand spectacle 
to see crowds of men, women and children sponta- 
neously and eagerly devoting themselves with 
enthusiasm, to that grand and sublime restoration 
of liberty to replant vineyards. Effectually, all 
could take part in it, for the culture has that pecu- 
liar to itself, that it offers occupation to suit the 
strength of both sexes of all ages. But let us look 
at the present condition of the vine in Europe. A 
few years ago there appeared a disease among the 
vines of Madeira, which, up to the present time 
has not ceased to exist, and so extensive have been 
its ravages, that entire districts have been com- 
pletely stripped not only of the grapes, but of the 
vines themselves. Simultaneously the vines on the 
Douro were affected ; the grapes of Medoc, in the 



OF THE VINE. 69 

south of Spain; in Italy, and in fact, more or less 
throughout the vine countries of the Old World. 
There is no doubt but that the famous wines of 
the south, in the course of a few years, will be no 
more. In Madeira, the vines are rooted up and 
cast out from the most celebrated vineyards — the 
old established wine-houses are winding up their 
affairs as speedily as possible ; commerce has ceased 
almost entirely, and this once famous island presents 
as cheerless an aspect, as the shop of a bankrupt. 
The ' Old Fort^ which Englishmen were wont to 
praise, is no longer yielded by the generous grape 
of the Douro. In Italy, the Orvieto, and the Monte 
Fiascone, will soon be historical wines only — wines 
of traditional excellence; and France, proud France, 
has yet to see her dreariest days I If, then, we call 
to mind that all the vines of Europe are of one 
stock, derived mainly from the wild grape of Persia; 
that these have been propagated by one method 
only — layers or cuttings, through many centuries — 
that this is opposed to the method by which nature 
produces its kinds, and that one common fatal 
disorder has attacked these vines at the same time, 
a disorder whose end is certain extermination, we 
must incline to the belief that some general cause 
has produced so general an effect. It can not be 
in climate, for climates vary; it can not be in soil, 
for soils vary; it can not be in the culture, for cul- 
tures vary ; nor can it be in the species, for species 
vary. What if it be in the method of propagation ? 
What if cutting after cutting, have, at last, exhaust- 



70 CULTIVATION 

ed the reproductive powers of Nature, even in the 
vine, the most hardy of her children ? , This is not 
unworthy of consideration. The potato, subjected 
to similar treatment, yields up its Irish ghost in less 
than three centuries; and why not the vine in more 
than twenty? Europe may have to return to the 
wild grapes of Ferdistan for her future vineyards, 
or she may supplant her vineyards with the Isabel- 
las, Catawbas, and Scuppernongs of America. 
The average produce of the vineyards of the old 
world heretofore, has been over two thousand mil- 
lions of gallons of wine annually, an amount 
almost beyond the limits of finite comprehension. 
"Whither this mighty revenue will drift, as the 
oriental vine bows before time, fate, and circum- 
stance, is the question ? Here where the soil and 
climate unite to produce the largest yield, and the 
spontaneous growth of the grape is without a 
parallel, here seems to present a golden opportunity. 
What if we neglect it? What if we embrace it ?" 

DURABILITY AND FRUITFULNESS OF THE VINE. 

There are some advantages to be attained, de- 
cidedly favorable in the culture of the grape in the 
United States; among which are its early bearing 
qualities, its prodigious fruitfulness, and its great 
longevity if properly nurtured. When propagated 
from a layer, fruit is often obtained the next season 
after it is rooted, and then, for every succeeding 
year, even for centuries to come. Thus in planting 



OF THE VINE. 71 

a vine, we may reasonably expect to eat of its 
delicious fruit — to quaff if we choose its invigora- 
ting juice — to sit under our own vine, if not under 
our own fig-tree, and to inhale the sweet fragrance 
of its foliage ; and then you bequeath to coming 
generations a memento of your industry and care, 
more appreciable than the fleeting breath of present 
fame, or the honors of political distinction. 

On the continent of Europe, their vines have 
been considered young at the age of one hundred 
years, and one in England (the North Allerton) 
lived to the age of four hundred years, and died 
some twenty-five years since. It was one hundred 
and fifty feet in length, and measured near the root 
about four feet in circumference. Pliny gives an 
account of a vine six hundred years old. 

Wine was made in England in the twelfth cen- 
tury, but all of the best grapes of that country now, 
are raised under glass. I am informed there is a 
vine in the gardens of Queen Victoria, under glass, 
from which all the fruit is plucked every other year, 
while in its green state, and none of it is permitted 
to ripen ; and each succeeding alternate season, all 
is allowed to remain and ripen, and the quantity at 
each gathering is estimated at the enormous amount 
of six tuns ! Verily, the British Queen does not 
seem willing to be outrivaled in any particular, in 
her extraordinary bearing qualities. 

The United States surpass all other countries in 
the fruitfulness of their vines in the open air. A 
vine was raised near Baltimore, Maryland, by Mr. 



72 CULTIVATION 

Willis, which, in 1832, produced twenty-five thou- 
sand bunches of grapes, and in the succeeding 
year his neighbors, Messrs. Bromwell and Monk- 
land, certify that they counted fifty-four thousand 
four hundred and ninety clusters, omitting small 
and green ones, which would have added at least 
three thousand more, making about fifty-eight 
thousand clusters! One remarks, that those 
gentlemen should have waited until those young 
ones grew up; and that to leave three thousand 
bunches out of the tally, because they were young 
and green, is really an insult to " Young America." 
An Isabella vine growing on the premises of Mr. 
M. C. Webster at Hartford, is worthy of notice in 
this connection. It is said to be only about six 
years old, and is planted by the side of a building, 
and trained upon its walls, and principally covers 
two sides of the building. The total length of its 
main branches, I found by actual measurement, to 
be more than three hundred and fifty feet, and it 
affords from six to eight bushels of grapes annually, 
for which the proprietor is offered twelve and a half 
cents per pound for all which he chooses to dispose 
of, besides many roots and cuttings which he sells 
each season. The system of pruning appears to 
be, merely to cut off' in the winter, a part of the 
growth of the preceding year, leaving from two to 
four buds or joints on each shoot for bearers the 
coming year. How far his vine will run in fifty or 
one hundred years, if allowed to extend, and the 
amount of fruit it will then produce, it would be 



OF THE VINE. 73 

difficult to determine. Now if at six years of age, 
an Isabella vine will net the owner thirty or forty 
dollars yearly, the investment pays a very liberal 
rate of interest, and may yet claim the profound 
attention of those who have the peculiar sagacity 
to perpetuate our statute laws on the subject of 
usury. 

A writer observes, that single vines of the Scup- 
pernong of Carolina, have been known to yield 
grapes enough to make several barrels of wine, and 
to cover two and a half acres of ground. The mode 
of cultivating the Scuppernong is peculiar. The 
vines (layers, not cuttings) are planted in the vine- 
yard one hundred feet apart, the main branches 
having space to run fifty feet each way, at right 
angles from the center, the laterals intersecting 
overhead, and forming a canopy. The branches 
are seldom pruned, as it is said the vine would bleed 
to death if pruned like other kinds. Like the vines 
in Lombardy, these are high trained, the lowest 
branches being eight feet above, and parallel with the 
ground. They can be made to cover an endless 
extent, for like the banian tree, its pendant limbs 
approach the ground, and naturally strike root of 
themselves. At the vineyard of Mr. Weller, about 
eighteen miles from Wilmington, N. C, a square 
was laid out and measured, and from the quantity 
gathered in the square from two vines, it was esti- 
mated that the two would yield one hundred and 
fifty barrels of grapes. Taking the weight of a 
barrel at two hundred pounds, this would amount 
to fifteen thousand pounds for each vine, or seven 



74 CULTIVATION 

and a half tuns I Surpassing even the pet vine of 
Queen Victoria. 



BLACKBERRY WINE. 

It is surprising so few people are aware that a 
fruit found so common in our fields and hedges, is 
capable of affording wine of most excellent quality, 
and very medicinal. Both the berry and the root 
of this bramble, are found to be useful in disorders 
of the stomach and bowels, and have been used 
with great advantage. There are two kinds w^hich 
are common, and both may be used for wine, but 
the fruit which grows on prickly stalks from three 
to six feet high is the best, and contains a sub-acid 
agreeable to the taste. 

To make this wine, press out the juice through a 
coarse cloth or strainer, and to each gallon before it 
is fermented, add one quart of water and about 
three pounds of good sugar, white or brown, (white 
is preferable,) and stir it together until the sugar is 
dissolved. Then put it into a clean keg or barrel, 
and set it in a cool place with the bung open; and 
it will ferment powerfully for several weeks, accord- 
ing to the heat of the weather. The lees will at 
length settle to the bottom, and when it is clear, it 
should be carefully drawn off into another cask, or 
other vessel, or can be bottled for use. Do not put 
the liquor at first into a jng for fermentation, as it 
would then be impossible to turn it off from the 
lees without disturbing the whole, and the wine 



OF THE VINE. 75 

would become turbid or roily. This wine ripens 
very fast, and becomes sound and drinkable in a 
few months, and possesses a rich vinous flavor. 



BLACKBERRY SYRUP 

Has been used with the best effect in bowel com- 
plaints and dysenteries. It can be made as follows. 
Take two quarts of juice of high vine blackber- 
ries — two pounds of loaf sugar — one ounce of 
cinnamon — one half ounce of nutmeg — one half 
ounce of cloves — one quarter ounce of allspice, 
all pulverized. Boil all together fifteen minutes, 
and when cold, strain it and add one pint of pure 
French brandy. Take from one tea-spoonful to a 
wine-glass of it, diluted with water, according to 
age, until cured. If pure French brandy can not 
be procured, sound blackberry wine, say double the 
quantity, might doubtless be substituted in its 
place. The spices can be varied to suit the taste. 

Another remedy for that afflicting disorder the 
dysentery, has been found so beneficial, and has 
been so often prescribed by medical men, that 
I feel induced in this place to insert it for the bene- 
fit of those who may be thus afflicted. Take one 
tea-spoonful of best Turkey rhubarb pulverized — 
ofte tea-spoonful of cinnamon — one tea-spoonful of 
saleratus — one handful of peppermint plant — loaf 
sugar sufficient to sweeten, (a table-spoon of char- 
coal is sometimes added to the mixture) — pour on 
one-half pint of boiling water, and when cold add 



76 CULTIVATION 

two table-spoons of pure French brandy. Dose 
one table-spoonful every hour, or according to the 
violence of the disease. This simple remedy is 
said to have relieved thousands, when taken at the 
commencement of the disease, or soon after. 



ENGLISH CHERRY WINE. 

Let the cherries be well ripened, mash them with 
a pounder, or with the hands in a cloth, and to 
three quarts of the juice, add one quart of water 
and about three pounds of sugar. It is fermented, 
and improves by age like other kinds, and makes a 
strong, brisk wine. 

CURRANT WINE. 

The common method of making this wine, is to 
bruise the currants and squeeze out the juice 
through a cloth or in a press, and then to each quart 
of the juice add two quarts of water, and about 
three pounds of brown sugar, which make one gal- 
lon. (It can be noted here that in making wine, 
three pounds of sugar equal one quart of liquid.) 
Its fermentation is similar to other wines. The 
properties of the currant are in a slight degree 
astringent and antiseptic, and it makes a pleasant 
cooling beverage in hot weather. It requires, how- 
ever, so much water in forming the wine, that it 
contains no aroma or body, except what is afforded 
by its acid and the sugar, and is not considered 



OF THE VINE. 77 

particularly excellent or valuable, by those who 
understand what constitutes good wine. 

About thirty years ago, a currant plantation of 
about forty acres was set out near Providence, 
R. I., and the wine from it sold mostly in the West 
Indies. The proprietor expressed his confidence 
that he would soon be able to make it produce two 
hundred pipes per annum. But as nothing has 
since been said about it, most likely the enterprise 
has been abandoned. 



ELDERBERRY WINE. 

This berry, as well as the bark of the bush, is a 
mild cathartic, and is sometimes used in syrups to 
cleanse the blood, and as an alterative and diuretic, 
has been administered in cases of dropsy. In Ger- 
many, a very pure and strong spirit is distilled from 
this fruit, after it has been sweetened by night 
frosts. Wine can easily be made from it, and by 
some it is considered as being very agreeable. The 
following recipe for its manufacture was written by 
a medical friend, and has been tested favorably, 

Recipe for ten gallons. Select dead-ripe berries, 
and let them stand two or three days after picking ; 
then press out the juice ; and for every three gallons, 
of juice use seven gallons of water, and three and 
a half pounds of sugar for every gallon of liquid thus 
formed. For the whole quantity add one gill of 
yeast, and when fermented, skim, and add one ounce 
of root-ginger — two ounces of cloves — three ounces 



78 CULTIVATION 

of allspice, pulverized, and one quart of French 
brandy; then cask, or bottle for use. Of course a 
less quantity can be formed if desired, by substitut- 
ing quarts for gallons, and altering the other in- 
gredients in proportion ; and blackberry or grape 
wine would be preferred by many, instead of the 
common French brandy. 

Another mode of making wine from the elder- 
berry, is practiced in England, according to the fol- 
lowing recipe, which was kindly furnished for the 
writer, by an English lady, together with a sample 
of the wine, which upon trial, is found to be no 
disparagement to the skill or taste of any lady. 

To one quart of berries fully ripe, add one quart 
of water, and boil together ten minutes ; squeeze 
out the liquid, and to each quart add one pound of 
sugar — then boil again five minutes — toast a piece 
of bread and soak it over night in good yeast, and 
put the bread into the wine, and let it remain for 
two or three weeks, or until well fermented — then 
bung up tight, and draw it off carefully from the 
lees in the spring and bottle it up ; and into each 
bottle put a small quantity of root-ginger and cork 
tight. 

WHORTLEBERRY WINE. 

These berries were very abundant in the year 
1854, and a grocer in Hartford, having accumulated 
a large quantity on hand, filled a barrel full of them 
to the bung, and then poured molasses in upon 



OF THE VINE. 79 

them until it was full. A powerful fermentation 
followed, and in two or three months, a clear, 
pleasant wine, or syrup, was drawn from the cask. 
He then turned the barrel on the end — took out 
the head, and readily sold the berries for making 
pies and dessert. The liquid was much esteemed, 
and was found, like the berries, to be an active 
diuretic, and very efficient in urinary obstructions. 
It is very probable that the like process with the 
blackberry and other fruit, would produce a pleasant 
beverage, and with very little trouble. 

STRAWBERRY WINE. 

A precious aromatic wine can be made from this 
delicate fruit, as follows. Add to the berries one- 
third their weight of good sugar — mash well 
together, and let it stand a few days until it ferments 
a little, then press out the juice and add to it one- 
fourth its measure of water, and sugar to sweeten 
well. Let it ferment for a few weeks without run- 
ning over, and with little exposure to the air ; then 
draw off carefully and bottle for use. 

TOMATO AVINE. 

A sample has recently been presented to the 
writer, by a neighbor, formed from the juice of the 
yellow tomato. The recipe for making it had been 
lost, but is believed to be similar to the process 
before described in making other kinds, with an 



80 CULTIVATION 

addition of some spices. When unbottled, it 
exhibits a brisk effervescence, and a critic in taste 
would hardly discover from what substance it was 
made. It is of a rich cream color, and doubtless 
contains the wholesome medicinal properties of the 
tomato. 

TO IMPROVE POOR WINE. 

Draw it off and mix a quantity of raisins, bruised, 
or raisins and honey ; and return it into a cask well 
cleansed. It can also be strengthened by placing 
it in a cold situation, where the superfluous water 
will freeze, and the essential part of the wine can 
then be emptied out or drawn off. Sour wine can 
be improved by adding to it chalk, or oyster-shells^ 
burned. The Germans put a small quantity of 
powdered charcoal into the wine when sour, and 
shake it well, and after it has remained still for 
about forty-eight hours, carefully rack it off into 
clean casks. 

In bottling wine or cider, lay the bottles on their 
sides, and not on their ends, and put them in a cool 
place in saw-dust, sand, or other substance to pre- 
serve a uniform temperature as possible. 

ELDERBERRY SYRUP. 

Wash and strain the berries, which should be per- 
fectly ripe. To one pint of juice add one pint of 
good molasses. Boil it twenty minutes, stirring it 



OF THE VINE. 81 

constantly ; then take it from the fire — when cold, 
add to each quart four table-spoonfuls of pure 
brandy, or twice that quantity of grape wine — bot- 
tle and cork it tight. This is an excellent remedy 
for a tight cough. 



CRANBERRY, GRAPE AND CURRANT JELLY, 

Are all made in the same manner. Gather the 
fruit in its prime, wash and drain it till nearly 
dry, then put it in an earthen jar or pot, and set 
the pot in a kettle of hot water — set the kettle where 
the water will boil, taking care that none gets into 
the jar. When the fruit breaks, turn it into a 
flannel bag, and let it drain slowly through into a 
deep dish without squeezing. When the juice has 
all passed through the bag, put to each pint of it, a 
pound and a half of white sugar — put to each 
quart of the syrup the beaten white of an egg — 
set the syrup where it will boil gently — as fast as 
any scum rises take the syrup from the fire and 
skim it clear. When the jelly has boiled fifteen or 
twenty minutes, try a little of it in a tumbler 
of cold water — if it sinks to the bottom in a 
solid lump, it is sufficiently boiled. Jellies are im- 
proved by standing in the sun for several days, but 
care should be taken that dew does not fall on 
them. Housekeepers often find it difficult to form 
their fruits into jelly; but if the above is strictly 
followed, success is pretty certain. 



82 CULTIVATION 

TO MAKE RAISINS. 

Any family, says Mr. Spooner, may prepare their 
own raisins from perfectly ripe, handsome, sweet 
grapes, as follows. Make a strong lye of wood 
ashes, put it in a vessel over the fire, and when at 
boiling heat plunge in the clusters, and suffer them 
to wilt in the liquid, when they are to be drawn 
out after becoming withered and wrinkled. They 
are then drained, and spread on hurdles to dry, in 
an oven or the sun, — the alkali does not penetrate 
into the fruit, but it has a great effect in rendering 
the skins tender, and does not injure the acid of the 
grape. 

TO KEEP GRAPES FRESH IN WINTER. 

The writer has been successful in preserving 
Isabella grapes through the winter, fresh and nice 
as when first gathered, and at this present time, 
(March,) has them sound and in good condition, by 
the following method. Procure clean saw-dust, 
(that from cedar wood is best if obtainable,) and 
dry it very thoroughly in an oven or in the sun, and 
provide a tight cask or box in which to pack the 
fruit. Let the grapes remain upon the vines as late 
as practicable, or until there is danger from hard 
frost, — then carefully pick off sound, well ripened 
clusters, and cover the bottom of your box with a 
layer of the saw-dust — then carefully place in a 
layer of the clusters, then the saw-dust, and so on 



OF THE VINE. 83 

until the box is full, — cover it tight and keep it in a 
dry, cool place, but where the contents will not 
freeze. Be careful that any of the grapes do not 
separate from the stems, as the juice would exude, 
and the dust would be liable to mould or sour. 
Some people burn or wax the ends of the stems, 
believing that it will tend to prevent the escape of 
the moisture in the fruit. Some have used bran^ 
thoroughly dried, in which to pack the grapes. 
Others place the bunches between layers of cotton^ 
in a cool, dry place, and they can in this way be 
preserved for a time in a very nice condition. 



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